Final Thoughts on Cuba

As we return to the USA we are overwhelmed with memories that make us still wonder, “what the heck just happened?” Cuba is probably one of the most “foreign“ places we’ve ever visited. 7438B6ED-55C6-462B-806A-9A6A7755552DHere are a few observations from our time on the island.

  1. Cuban pesos (CUP) are only used by Cubans.  Tourists deal in the Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC), which is 20 times more valuable than the peso. Both currencies are impossible to trade outside of Cuba. When we returned to Miami we discovered 40 CUC in our pockets. 9EAB101E-A3FC-43A8-AEEA-1304AA11F511The US-based currency exchange would not take the money and after asking at least a dozen Cuban-Americans working in the airport if they would like the money  (free money!), no one wanted it! We thought someone might be able to use it, but no one wanted to take the money!  Sidenote: if you are going to Cuba soon, let us know. We can sell you some convertible Cuban pesos!
  1. We take so much for granted in the USA. One big example is the availability of clean drinking water. We were advised not to drink from the tap;  however, our search for bottled water often turned up nothing. In fact when we stopped at a rest stop on the highway and attempted to buy water, the only beverage available to purchase was rum!  14B91148-94DE-4A43-B37D-7B01DC37F8AD.jpegWe stood in line at a store called Agua y Jabon for awhile until we looked in the window and only saw soap (jabon) on the shelves. No agua to be found!
  1. Cubans are master mechanics. The old US-made cars are really everywhere, and they’re all still running. How can they do it and yet, in the US, if we drive a car over 10 years old we’re really in need?
  2. Cuba has no advertising. On the highway and in the cities the signs you see are all in support of the revolution and the government.Most display the faces of Fidel Castro and/or Che Guevara. I guess we’re all  subject to advertising in one way or another.4DB7EEE7-85CA-48DB-B581-58D094D69BD6
  3. Why question? When we asked our guides questions about Cuban life,  we were often met with unclear answers.  We asked, “can you move to another city to escape the crowds in Havana?”  The answer was yes, but it’s very difficult and no, there are some places you can’t go, and well, no. Huh?“Does the government provide your housing?” No, but housing is free and the people in Las Terrazas got their homes for free. Huh? There are no mortgages but you can own your home. Huh? 30427AA3-052C-489A-B770-FDFB81C4F0CE.jpegWe tried really hard to understand the systems but concluded some things are better left misunderstood.
  4. Some things are free and some are impossibly expensive. Healthcare, education and housing are provided by the government. Buying a car could cost as much as $85,000 for a used sedan or $250,000 for a Peugeot.8A1156B2-C230-40CD-A78E-34F869CC5F03
  5. People are essentially the same everywhere. We found the Cuban people to be warm, friendly, fun-loving.And, like in every other part of the world we’ve visited, they are searching for the same things we are. We all want to be recognized. We all want to be safe. We all want to be loved. It’s no different in Cuba.696D32A2-99D5-45CF-82E1-1DCC66C87E7B.jpeg

Cuba is an enigma. It’s vibrant, colorful, beautiful place with happy welcoming people. Because it’s  so different makes it that much more worth exploring.61204FF1-9AD1-4D56-B344-787DB4DBE233

Cuban Countryside: Viñales and Las Terrazas

After our time at the beach in Varadero, we left the larger group and set off with a guide and driver to the countryside.  We arrived in Viñales after a beautiful five hour drive and began exploring the life of rural Cubans.

We stayed at Los Jasmines Hotel, which overlooks the Viñales Valley.  The beautiful views contributed to the quick recovery of my sore throat, for sure. The Valley is the center of Cuba’s tabacco growing culture and has recently transformed into a tourist hub for those seeking outdoor adventures.D1C51618-3002-45E4-B7C7-8DCEFE70C42B We enjoyed several farm to table meals at rustic farms where the fresh veggies were grown on site. FCA080DD-C576-48A8-BF7A-73DAF04D7D81F62F20B2-FC21-4A0E-9573-F9FBC841BB65A80BCC05-28A4-4F94-AB66-C6E77037FC03They kept bringing out plate after plate until there was no room left on the table.

Steve enjoyed the planned hike to the village of Los Acquaticos while I stayed at the hotel and rested.  His 4+ mile trek took him up into the mogotes (limestone monoliths) to meet the 87 year old Sixto, who supposedly is the last person on Earth to know the source of the nearby healing waters. A534104F-842D-4A21-BC66-C84D0A6A2000.jpegThey couldn’t get it out of him, but they enjoyed fresh pressed sugar cane juice and coffee as a reward for the hike.2157D62A-AD82-422D-AB15-72DB47F27FE8B51D0A24-D663-403C-81AF-A5CA3C1BB425

Along the way Steve took in the classic sights of rural Cuba. In many ways it’s still operating like it was 100 years ago. FFFE77F7-C442-45C4-BD23-0C8D2CA8261DC6828573-F127-477C-BA6B-C01FBDBCE5354E0E3D05-2F1F-4089-8747-9C9BB5C5AC1BFDB34A98-894E-4AE7-9F5C-5C5C78EAB5074B928388-D89F-462D-9A6F-491DDC14A451

In the afternoon, after another farmer’s lunch, we visited the Cave of the Indian (Cueva de los Indios).  4B9155BA-034A-4B8B-B7E3-914C851D882E.jpegCompared to other caves we’ve visited this was pretty minor, but the boat ride in the cave set it apart.52F8FF95-7145-47C6-98E6-121458A76197A7FD29EF-BC9A-45A4-A4E3-6334BF0B3D2AFFD7078F-BE3E-4347-9679-BD358DA784DD

Another highlight of our time in Viñales was a visit to Benito Camejo’s tabacco farm. We hung out with farmhand and cigar rolling expert Ismael who taught us how to smoke the cigars we watched him roll. 1959B691-BA71-49A3-B915-40F58FEC564E.jpegWe’re not smokers but didn’t want to pass up an opportunity to smoke a cigar rolled right before our eyes.

Of course it was followed up with some Cuban rum and a walk around the farm to inspect the oxen and the tobacco plants.59CFB64E-5098-47EA-A46E-9B8EBCFA5A18.jpeg

Our private guide Santiago and our professional driver Rafael have taken great care of us and have helped us understand some of the mysteries of this land. 6B30C2C9-9E8D-4117-B7DA-08B934BED417.jpegIt’s always great to have friends along that help you understand the customs and history of a place. These guys were good!!

Our final night in the countryside was spent in the government-developed, sustainable community of Las Terrazas. 18B10CA7-8930-4BB4-A7CD-0DAF14F58F3A.jpegThe idyllic setting was the perfect place to relax and reflect on the many things we have seen and learned on this trip.

While in the area we visited the Baños de San Juan, a riverside park that provides a nice place to cool off (too cool to get in the water while we were here).

We also stopped at Rancho  Curujey, a lakeside picnic area also part of the Las Terrazas complex. 

Finally we toured the ruins of the Buena Vista coffee plantation which was built in 1801 by French refugees from Haiti.

To this day you can see the house of the original owner and the slaves’ quarters.

We saw a lot in three days, considering the sore throat, fever, and then some stomach issues. It’s all part of the travel adventure. Next up, one more night in Havana.

Varadero, Cuba

Our last few days have been spent in the beach resort area of Varadero, at the all-inclusive Iberostar. All inclusive resorts are nice because, well, everything is included. Steve could drink an unlimited amount of rum and food is available 24/7.

It’s kind of like a cruise on land. We even had dinner one night at the Japanese restaurant and learned to make rum drinks.

9F6FBC54-EAFD-477F-90D2-C58018AFF070The cool thing is that we are still on “program” with Marathon Tours which means we have one or two excursions per day available to us that allow us to “support the Cuban people.” This is where the real fun is.

One excursion included a trip into the town of Matanzas which is the location of Cuba‘s oldest baseball stadium Palma de Junco.D51C25EB-278D-4CEC-A076-2575B391A8C4 It’s also home of the newly created Cuban Baseball Hall of Fame. Baseball is huge here, and we were able to meet a Hall of Famer, Jose Estrada Gonzales, “Pepito” and get our picture taken with him, along with a signed ball.

We watched up-and-coming Cuban baseball stars practice and then got a turn at bat.339BFDAF-E0B4-4B23-9F54-221D1A4F6F84.jpeg10158526-748A-48FD-9ED2-E76E86281B7B0501DC00-D4EF-42D9-A08B-88E1B211D475

From there we did a walking tour of the town and interacted with locals on the way. I always have candy in my purse. Sweets and a smile is a good icebreaker worldwide.

Another excursion was a trip to the Cuban Dance Academy where we watched and then danced with folkloric dancers. 3BE080C7-114C-4C58-B3AF-7D236809AA16
Our time in Varadero was relaxing and rejuvenating after the race but now we are headed into the countryside to explore another slice of this mysterious island.C60130EF-5CAE-4A1F-ABC5-A04DFC40D146