Baja’s Grey Whales

About 10,000 people each year make the pilgrimage to Guerrero Negro, Baja California Sur, Mexico to experience what is known as the “world’s largest whale nursery.” Seeing the whales was the highlight of our 15-day Fantasy RV tour, but it was only part of this grand adventure. 

We joined our group of 22 RVs in Ensenada and after one more visit to the wine country, we headed south. The day we departed Ensenada, cartel kingpin El Mencho was killed in mainland Mexico, setting off a wave of attacks centered in Puerto Vallarta and spreading across the country. While driving south we were temporarily stalled by a tomato truck that had been set on fire, creating a blockade. Here’s a photo taken from social media of the explosion.

Blockade north of Camalú

We just saw the aftermath (no photos), and that was enough to caused some concern in our group. In fact, three RVs turned back the next day. We, however, decided to continue on since the violence in Baja was centered around the border and Tijuana. Our decision to proceed southward turned out to be sound, as it was peaceful for the rest of the trip. 

Passing through Baja’s majestic desert topography, we saw wild horses and unique landscapes. Camping amidst the cardònes and cirios was like being in a western movie. 

After three days of driving we arrived in Guerrero Negro. For the next two mornings we visited Ojo de Liebre lagoon and one of the largest concentrations of grey whales on the planet. 

After feeding all spring and summer in Alaska, the entire grey whale population heads south to three Mexican lagoons to give birth and nurse their calves. While in the calm waters of the lagoon, the whales show great curiosity and playfulness toward the boats. 

We were approached by numerous 35-40 foot specimens who seemed to be just as interested in us as we were in them. They allowed us to pet them and even sneak a kiss!

One even used its nose to push our boat in circles for over a minute. And there’s nothing like getting a whale blowhole shower.

We also spent time with a mama whale who was teaching her baby to approach us. The experience was definitely one-of-a-kind!

Guerrero Negro is also the site of one of the world’s largest salt production plants and it’s the high salinity of the lagoons that makes them attractive to the whales. One afternoon Steve joined the group for a tour of the massive salt facility and was amazed by the operation.

After our time in Guerrero Negro, we traveled across the peninsula to the sleepy village of Bahia de Los Ángeles (BLA), set on the Sea of Cortez. Our beachfront campsites were the perfect setting for kayaking and beach barbecues.

Steve and his buddies went fishing and caught large, yellowfin tuna that was delicious on the Blackstone. 

Fantasy RV tours fed us extremely well, and we are now in detox mode! Fresh seafood and Mexican dishes, along with plenty of margaritas were on our menu most days.

While this was a spectacular trip, our new friends made it even more special. Jay & June and Jim & Yujing were on both of the back-to-back tours, and the six of us became a formidable team. We shared meals, hikes, happy hours, laundry trips, and plenty of laughs.

Travel is always enriching, but it’s the friends you make along the way that truly make it exceptional. We are grateful to have made four, great new friends on this Mexican adventure. 

A Taste of Baja

Our RV lifestyle continues south of the border in Baja California, Mexico, enjoying two back-to-back, guided RV caravans with Fantasy RV Tours. Our first tour, A Taste of Baja, allowed us to tip our toe into Baja before diving further south.  

Map showing the region of Baja California, Mexico, highlighting locations such as San Diego and Ensenada.

We started our Baja exploration by basing ourselves at Clam Beach RV park, just north of Ensenada and about 85 miles south of the US border. We’re the blue dot on the map above. With 41 other RVers we caravanned across the border and spent seven days exploring Northern Baja’s wine area, Valle de Guadalupe.

This tour was all about food, and wine (and some tequila), and the culture of northern Baja. Our first night featured dinner at the seaside restaurant Splash. The leisurely meal, accompanied by plentiful margaritas, offered the perfect environment for making new friends. 

On our first full day in Mexico, we boarded a tour bus for the 50 minute drive to Valle de Guadalupe. Our first tasting experience at family-owned Xecuè was complimented by fresh seafood and a range of wines.  

After lunch we headed to L.A. Cetto winery, one of Mexico’s largest and most influential wine producers. We toured the grounds and learned about the history of Cetto, which began in the early 19th century in Italy.

The wine and olive oil tasting with our new friends was a great way to spend the afternoon.

The next day we bussed to Ensenada and toured the Casa del Cultura, Riviera del Pacifico. Once a former luxury resort and casino, the building now serves as a cultural space and welcoming center. There we were treated to margaritas from the bar that claims to have created the drink, named after its patron, Margaret King Plant. We’ve since learned that claim is also attributed to about five or six other sources. Oh well, the margaritas there were great!

We spent the rest of the day wandering Ensenada, lunching on tacos, and tasting tequila. 

On Steve’s birthday we returned to Valle de Guadalupe and the incredible Casa Frida. Great wine, great art centered around the influence of Frida Khalo, and great tequila marked our visit. First we tasted four wines complemented by a robust charcuterie plate.

Immediately following we tasted four tequilas complemented by uniquely garnished citrus. Steve got extra of everything as a tribute to his birthday!

From Casa Frida we stumbled into King and Queen cantina for lunch. There we enjoyed a welcome mezcal cocktail and four appetizers.

Lunch was served with margaritas and our firecracker-topped dessert was served with house-brewed beer. By this time, the DJ had the crowd on the dance floor and the old folks were boogying. Steve remained seated, as per the “Green” norm.

Believe it or not, we had one more stop after King and Queen. A tasting of four more wines about did us in at Valle de Rondo. We left that stop with a gifted bottle of wine, thanks to Fantasy RV tours. What a day!

We finished our time on this tour with a free day at Clam Beach followed by a farewell dinner at the renowned restaurant Finca Altozano. Finca Altozano was created by Michelin-starred chef Javier Plascencia, who is known for pioneering Baja-Med cuisine.

Our six course meal, served in the open-air restaurant overlooking the sweeping vineyards, featured panzanela salad with vegetables from the garden, shrimp sopes with bone marrow, blue fin tuna tostados, grilled octopus, beef ribs, and lamb. Dessert of pan de elote with fresh cream sealed the deal.

A long, leisurely meal with spectacular views and a great group of friends was the perfect way to end our Taste of Baja experience.

Once the tour was over we relaxed at Clam Beach with a few fellow adventurers until our next tour began. Our small group visited local sites, shared dinners, and shopped at a Mexico Costco.

Our next tour will take us deeper into Mexico to see the famous grey whales and their babies. Stay tuned! We’ll have another update soon.