As we’ve done with nieces and nephews in the past, we offered 16 year old Nathan a trip of his choosing. He chose Alaska. In just a week we hit three National Parks, caught our limit of halibut, and had incredible wildlife encounters.
The travelers Goodbye MomWe made it!
We met Nate in Omaha, where the boys got in a round of golf before flying to Anchorage. In Anchorage Steve and Nate got in another round. We explored a bit of Anchorage including Costco, Ship Creek and Earthquake Park, where we saw a moose and explored the beach.
At the Hatchery on Fish Creek Obligatory Costco stopMoose in Earthquake ParkOn Cook Inlet
Our visit to Denali National Park was via plane. We drove to Talkeetna and enjoyed a spectacular flight into the park where we landed on the Ruth Glacier.
Talkeetna River with Mt Denali in background Ready to flyNate and the planeIncredible viewsRivers of ice
We were also able to see the climber’s base camp and Mt. McKinley’s (Denali’s) neighboring peaks, Mt Foraker and Mt Hunter. There’s really no way to describe the majesty of these mountains but hopefully you get a sense from the photos.
Nate on the glacierSteve on the glacierStanding on a glacier Majestic views
Next we headed southwest towards Seward with a brief stop at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center. There we got a quick introduction to some of the animals we’d see later in the trip, including the brown bear.
Steve and NathanMooseTalking to the bearGrizzly ElkMuskoxReindeer Serious conversations
In Seward we spent our time on the water. Our little cabin was steps from Resurrection Bay, which made it easy for the guys to catch their early morning fishing boat. They both caught their limit of halibut and rockfish and Nate caught five cod to Steve’s four. So, Nate won the fishing contest.
The fishermenThe boat’s haulMorning coffee on Resurrection BayReady to fishPulling in a big oneGood thing they had rain gearOne of two boxes of fish
Four years ago when we RVed to Alaska, we really enjoyed the Major Marine cruise into Kenai Fjords National Park. As we experienced before, we were able to see a pod of Humpback whales bubble net feeding. This rare cooperative feeding behavior is exclusive to certain Humpbacks and researchers are still exploring how the whales communicate in order to fish together. It’s really quite a site.
Bubble net feedingBirds signal the event
On the cruise we also approached the foot of the tidewater Holgate Glacier. These were the highlights though we did see Dall’s Porpoise, Sea Otters, Mountain Goats, Stellar Sea Lions, Harbor Seals, Eagles, and various other birds.
Holgate Glacier
Our final big adventure was a trip to the little-visited Lake Clark National Park and Chinitna Bay. We flew from Anchorage past active volcanoes Mt Redoubt and Mt Iliana to land on the beach of the bay.
Co-pilot MarnieSo close you could touch the peaksLanding on the beach
After a brief introduction we headed to a large marsh area where more than a dozen coastal brown bears were seen grazing. We watched a mother with triplets guard from attacks from male bears and enjoyed seeing others running and playing.
We stayed for a few hours. Others camped on the beach with the bears.National Park stamp station
Seeing bears in the wild is always a thrill and Chinitna Bay did not disappoint.
Bear watching
After a final dinner (and DQ) in Anchorage we returned to Omaha at about midnight for a final goodbye.
49th State BrewingFinished with a blizzard Goodbyes at the airport
Nate got to see and experience things most people only dream about and we were happy to be along for the ride.
For many years I’ve kept a “life list.” Some may call it a bucket list but I prefer to think of it as experiences that enrich my life, rather than a list of things to do before death. It’s a long list, and we ticked off quite a few experiences this summer in Alaska. Now that we are headed back to our home base, it’s time to recap this epic summer adventure and offer some tips for anyone heading to Alaska in an RV.
Dog sleddingFishingRoot Glacier Hike
We had expectations for what would be the big highlights this summer; some didn’t disappoint, others surprised us. The lesson: be open to whatever experiences are presented to you along the way. You never know what (or who) is going to really have an impact.
Birthday dinner at Tonsina Lodge with the Russian ownerHiking Johnston Canyon with Russ and SusanSalty Dawg Saloon with Peggy
Here are a few of our top experiences:
Driving the Alaska Highway – While the drive itself was not originally on my list, we knew from research that this is an epic drive, from Arizona to Alaska, over 3,200 miles. We took a full month to make the journey, stopping at Banff, Jasper, and all of the main towns along the highway through Alberta, British Columbia, and the Yukon Territory.
We made it to Mile 0
Joined by our friends Russ and Susan, we hiked, biked, shopped, and ate our way through some of Canada’s most beautiful areas. Along the way we spotted 14 bears, 21 caribou, 10 moose, 3 fox, 6 porcupines, and countless bison, bald eagles, and trumpeter swans.
One of many along the wayRuss and Susan at snowy Lake LouiseNear Liard Hot Springs
Rubbing shoulders with bears – Once we got to Alaska we splurged on the flight to Katmai National Park to see the bears at Brooks Falls. The iconic shot of the bear catching salmon on the falls is real and we got it!
Hmmm…what’s over there?Caught one!Brooks FallsFour cubs
Walking through the park and seeing bears just off the trail was a little unnerving at first and then just awe-inspiring. For me, this was one of the biggest highlights of our summer. Steve, however, saw bears numerous times while out running (in Jasper and in the Yukon). One large grizzly even followed him back to the camper, which allowed me to see the big guy from our back window.
Congdon Creek Provincial ParkMillion Dollar Falls Provincial Park
Catching trophy fish – Okay, this wasn’t on my list, but Steve set out to make this a summer of fishing and he was very successful. He caught King Salmon on the Klutina River with Mitch, Red Salmon on the Kenai with Dave, and Halibut from Resurrection Bay near Seward with Sam.
Coho (Red) SalmonHalibutKing Salmon
In all we shipped about 50 pounds of fish home and cooked the catch at least twice a week most of the summer. Besides catching the trophy fish, Steve spent some quality time with some of our favorite people.
Mitch catches a Silver SalmonDave catches a Red SalmonSam’s fishing
Seeing the northern lights – The Aurora Borealis has been on my list for decades, but we didn’t really think we’d see them with so much daylight in the summer. Sometimes the best things happen when you least expect it. When our ferry to Skagway was cancelled we were re-routed through Whitehorse, Yukon. Steve just happened to look out the window at midnight and BAM! The lights were making their first appearance of the year and we caught it at just the right time. Breathtaking is just one word that comes to mind.
Our list of highlights could go on and on and previous blog posts have captured most of them in great detail. Instead we’d like to offer a few tips for anyone thinking about making the epic journey to Alaska with an RV.
Tip #1: Take your time. It’s a long drive and there’s so much to see along the way. While there are RV parks along the way, we highly recommend staying at Canada’s Provincial Parks. These beautiful government facilities are in picturesque locations and cost less than $20 a night. British Columbia and the Yukon Territory both knocked our socks off with beauty and warm people.
Million Dollar Falls Provincial ParkMeziadin Lake Provincial ParkCongdon Creek Provincial Park
And, while you’re taking your time, drive slowly, especially where the road is not in ideal condition. In the north you’ll encounter frost heaves, potholes, and road construction. We took our time, rarely driving over 60mph. While others reported broken axles, shredded tires, and chipped windshields, we only experienced one flat tire on the truck all summer.
Tip #2 – Reservations not needed – I’m an over planner and had reservations for most of our summer. We learned quickly that it really wasn’t necessary with the exception of the popular places at popular times (Seward at 4th of July, Denali, Homer). Part of the fun of seeing Alaska with an RV is discovering new places and being surprised by where you’re spending the night. We are glad we booked the two campgrounds in Denali National Park, Savage River and Teklanika. Both gave us more time in the park than we otherwise would have had. It was also good to have a place to land in Seward and Homer. Other than that, you can totally wing it and find inexpensive or free places to camp with no problem.
Seward 4th of JulySavage River Valley
Tip #3 – Roll with the punches – As much as I like to plan, in Alaska some things can’t be controlled. Our original bear trip to Katmai was cancelled and we had to reschedule to another day, our ferry from Haines to Skagway cancelled at the last minute, and on some days it just rained and rained. The more time you have, the more flexible you can be to adjust to the curveballs that will inevitably be thrown your way.
Marnie & Mitch in rainy ValdezFinally going to Katmai
It really was a summer of a lifetime, one that we won’t soon forget. Our recommendation: do it! And if you need any help with planning, just let us know!!!
After a wonderful Alaskan summer filled with wildlife, hiking, and fishing with friends and family, we’ve begun our trek southward. It’s going to take us at least a month to get home, so there are more fun stops ahead!
On the road againHeading southOne of many beautiful campsites
We’ve been doing quite a few days of driving, though never more than 200 miles each segment. Along the way, again on the Alaskan Highway, we’ve stopped at mostly provincial parks, which are beautiful government-run campgrounds that often include free firewood and a view.
Boya LakeKinaskan Lake Fishing in Boya LakeMeziadin LakeBoya Lake
Twice while staying at these campgrounds, Steve has had encounters with grizzly bears while out running! He didn’t have any problems, but it sure increases the heart rate and gave us some good photos.
This guy followed Steve back to the trailer!This one was across the creek
We took the side trip to Haines, AK from the Alaska highway in the Yukon Territory. We’re getting good at crossing international borders. Haines is a beautiful little town on Alaska’s Inside Passage. We had cruise ships visit town three days while we were there.
Haines BayView from Fort Chilkoot
One of the attractions in the area is the Kroschel Wildlife Center, so we checked it out. Steve Kroschel, a documentary film maker who delighted Johnny Carson with his baby wolverines in 1990, opens his 60 acre wildlife reserve to small group tours. The wildlife park is a funky, entertaining collection of surprises.
Kroschel Wildlife Park EntranceFun signs everywhereLynxSteve petting a porcupineSnowy owlClose up
In our two hours with Steve Kroschel, we got up close and personal with wolves, porcupines, ermines, caribou, baby moose, and of course a grizzly. Steve is a “personality” and the experience was certainly memorable.
He’s quite a characterSteve and his pet wolverineCaribouBaby mooseGrizzly bear
Haines has some nice hiking trails, which we explored when it wasn’t raining. The coastal rainforest is lush and beautiful.
Battery PointRainforest hiking Fun hike through the forest
Twice while we were in Haines we visited Chilkoot State Park in the early evening to see the local bears. They hang out in the neighborhood where the Chilkoot River merges with the ocean. Mama bears and their babies were on the hunt for salmon and we enjoyed watching them do their thing.
Crossing the park roadTeaching them to fish
We had planned to put our truck and trailer on the ferry to travel to nearby Skagway where we’d continue our journey. Well…best laid plans…the ferry was cancelled due to mechanical problems, so we headed back up to the Alaska Highway and spent the night in Whitehorse, YT where we’d visited on our way to Alaska. Our detour was a blessing in disguise as we were able to catch a glimpse of the northern lights! We really lucked out!
View right from our campsiteWow!Dancing across the sky
As we worked our way through British Columbia we took another detour to the twin towns of Stewart, BC and Hyder, AK. With our new friends that we met at a provincial campground, Ari and Dahlia, we drove the very rough road to the spectacular Salmon Glacier with views for miles.
Salmon GlacierAri & DahliaMarnie and Steve above Salmon GlacierSalmon Glacier belowAmazing, huh?
We also made the stop at Fish Creek where bears are a frequent sight during the salmon run. We timed it just right and enjoyed watching a young grizzly playing with the fish for over 30 minutes.
Hyder BearNice looking guy
To celebrate our good bear fortune we visited the only bar in Hyder to get “Hyderized.” Steve and Ari took the challenge, doing a shot of mystery liquor (Everclear) and receiving a certificate for their efforts.
Waiting to be “hyderized”Steve and Ari taking the challengeSteve’s been hyderizedMia and Bob visit another bar
We’re now continuing our daily 100-200 mile jaunts moving slowly southward. We’re traveling through native lands, where totem poles are plentiful and subsistence fishing is the norm. In Witset, BC we enjoyed watching a local dip-net for salmon in a narrow place in the river.
Totems of KitwangaDip nettingCaught a salmon!
The landscapes in the Yukon Territory and British Columbia have been nothing short of spectacular and the people have been truly “Canada nice.”