Brynn’s Italy – Part One

As DINKS, we didn’t have the normal expenses that accompany children. And, as you know, we value travel as an educational experience. As such, we have offered all of our nieces and nephews a trip of their choosing when they turn 16. Our latest adventures are with Brynn, Steve’s brother Gary’s sweet daughter.

Brynn told us several years ago that Italy was her choice. Our two week trip takes us to Rome, Cinque Terre, Florence, and the Amalfi Coast. This post will cover our first week.

We flew from Kansas City to Rome with no delays or issues. Our driver was waiting for us in Rome and took us directly to our hotel in the Trastevere neighborhood. From there we wandered a bit, trying to shake off the overnight flight.

Though we were jet-lagged we booked a golf cart tour for our first afternoon to give us an overview of the key sites. We’ll return for a more in depth look at Rome at the end of our trip.

The golf cart was a perfect way to get oriented and see the major sites. From the Trevi Fountain to the Colosseum and from the Vatican to the Spanish Steps, we caught glimpses of the most famous of Rome’s landmarks.

The next morning we took the train to Levanto, a small city on the northern border of Cinque Terre National Park.

The next morning our wonderful guide, Stefano, led us back to the train station and through the two of the five quaint, picturesque, seaside towns that make up Cinque Terre. Our first stop was Vernazza, with its small, protected harbor and its church dating to the 11th century .

After a walking tour up and down the steps of the town, we took the train to the village of Monterosso. Here we wandered the narrow lanes and ancient landmarks until we came to our lunch restaurant.

Pesto is a specialty in this region of Italy, so we took a lesson in pesto making before being served lunch. Steve got the sauce started by crushing fresh basil and pine nuts. Brynn finished, using her muscles to create a fine sauce.

Stefano left us after lunch and we explored two of the remaining three villages on our own. By the end of the day we had walked over 20,000 steps and climbed over 40 flights of stairs. We felt like we earned our gelato!

Our second day in Levanto was just as active. In the morning we borrowed bikes from the hotel and rode north on an old, seaside, rail trail to the villages of Bonassola and Framura. We couldn’t pass up a stop on the beach for a little dip.

After our picturesque ride, we met up with our guide Luca for a paddling trip down the Ligurian coast. The cliffs that make these ancient villages so pretty also make for a scenic paddle. Since the water is still a bit cool in late May, our wetsuits were appreciated. This was Brynn’s first time paddling in the open ocean and she did great!

We moved on from the beautiful Cinque Terre for a quick stop in Florence. We only had a day and a half in the city, but we crammed in as much as we could.

Even though we are early in the season the crowds in Florence can be overwhelming. Our museum guide, Fillipo, made it easy to skip the lines and the crowds at the Accademia. He guided us through the galleries, providing just enough detail and background to understand the most important works. Of course, we were most interested to see Michelangelo’s David. Considered one of the most important works of art on the planet, it truly takes your breath away.

After our museum visit we spent most of the rest of the day wandering the streets and alleyways of Florence, stopping frequently to shop, eat, or check out a market.

We found our way across the Arno River to the Piazzelle. Michelangelo where Steve, my mom, and I visited in 1999. It was fun to recreate our photo of mom in her honor. Steve gets credit for both photos.

We celebrated our 38th wedding anniversary while in Florence with a great meal and a bottle of wine. Thanks to Brynn for being our photographer!

We’re heading south and will post a recap of the second half of Brynn’s Italian adventure next week.

Springtime in Virginia

Our time in Delaware was nice, but we were all ready to head west, away from the cool coast and the densely populated areas.

After a quick stop in the DC area to re-provision (hello Costco!), we continued westward with a stop in Buchanan, VA. Our ultimate plan was to check out Roanoke, which is known for its bike trails. However, it is not known for RV parks. The closest we could find was Limestone Park Campground, 20 miles from Roanoke.

Limestone Park only has 14 sites and it was a quiet respite, until the cops showed up. Here’s a video of the arrest we took from our bedroom window.

Once the suspected domestic violence offender was hauled away, we had a very uneventful stay.

Besides hitting the local Planet Fitness we got the bikes out on the Roanoke River Greenway. The 30 mile trail runs through the city along the Roanoke River. The nice path through numerous parks and past popular landmarks allowed us to see a little of the city. We even had a picnic lunch along the trail.

The little town of Buchanan is known for its swinging bridge. The bridge dates back to 1851 and the original bridge was burned by the Confederates in 1864. Since the 1930s the bridge has been maintained by the city. And yes, it does swing (and bounce) as you walk across.

A nearby brewery called A Few Old Goats turned out to be a great place for Bob to relax, and our little campground was a great place for a campfire.

Bouncing Around History

After Steve finished the Marine Corps Marathon we had about a month before his next race in Philadelphia. What would you do with a month in this part of the country? We decided to make it a learning experience, visiting the area’s many historic sites and natural highlights. Here’s a brief rundown on our many stops.

Colonial Williamsburg

We started our history lessons with the revolutionary war era at Colonial Williamsburg and nearby national park sites Jamestown and Yorktown. At Jamestown we walked the site of the first English settlement, dating 1607. From a Colonial Williamsburg reenactor we learned the role slavery played in our country’s early years and how one slave influenced the outcome of the conflict. Colonial Williamsburg recreates the atmosphere and lifestyle of 18th-century Virginia. At Yorktown we followed the battlefield where the revolutionary war was brought to a conclusion. The siege of Yorktown was in 1781, so our learning at this stop spanned 174 years of our nation’s history.

Charlottesville

Our quick stop in Charlottesville, VA allowed us to visit another iconic site in American history. Look on the back of a nickel. That’s Monticello! It was Thomas Jefferson’s primary plantation and the location of a lot of history. During our tour of the house we learned about Jefferson’s lifelong interest in architecture, about the slaves that worked in the mansion, and about life during Jefferson’s time. While there we also visited the Monticello Cemetery where Jefferson and his descendants rest. 

Shenandoah National Park

While we enjoy a good historic tour, the mountains are really more our style. From Charlottesville we traveled west just a bit to visit Shenandoah National Park. Over a few days we traversed the park’s 105-mile Skyline Drive, which affords views to the east and the west at the same time. We also fit in a few hikes. Most notably we hiked to the partially restored Rapidan Camp which was Herbert Hoover’s presidential fishing estate. 

Hagerstown

After a few days in the mountains we headed north a to a KOA in Hagerstown, Maryland. From there we were able to dive into the Civil War by visiting the battlefields at Antietam and the historic town of Harpers Ferry. The C & O Canal also runs through the area and operated for nearly 100 years. It was a lifeline for communities along the Potomac River as coal, lumber, and agricultural products floated down the waterway to market. Today it is a pathway for recreation and provided for a good bike ride.

Gettysburg

Our Civil War education continued next in Gettysburg. The Battle of Gettysburg was a turning point in the war with the Union victory after three days of battle. Gettysburg was the Civil War’s bloodiest battle and was also the inspiration for President Abraham Lincoln’s immortal “Gettysburg Address.” Over 1,300 monuments, memorials, and markers dot the countryside, a constant reminder of the sacrifices made on both sides of the conflict. 

Amish Country

After three days of the Gettysburg battlefields, we were ready for a change of scenery. Our final stop before arrival in Philadelphia was the Pennsylvania Amish region of Lancaster County. Over five days we visited farm markets, quilt shops, goat farms, and creameries. Our campground, Country Acres, offered a free two-hour tour of the area, and we took them up on it. We learned so much about the variations of Amish way of life by driving around with a knowledgeable guide who could tell us what we were looking at. 

About 45 minutes from Lancaster is the town of Hershey, home to Hershey’s chocolate. It was an obligatory tourist stop that resulted in a bag of candy we don’t need! We did take a fun tour at Chocolate World which made the visit worthwhile. 

This was a great survey of a part of the country that was completely new to us. The origins of our great country were seeded here and learning about that history helped us understand how our nation has evolved.