Brynn’s Italy – Part One

As DINKS, we didn’t have the normal expenses that accompany children. And, as you know, we value travel as an educational experience. As such, we have offered all of our nieces and nephews a trip of their choosing when they turn 16. Our latest adventures are with Brynn, Steve’s brother Gary’s sweet daughter.

Brynn told us several years ago that Italy was her choice. Our two week trip takes us to Rome, Cinque Terre, Florence, and the Amalfi Coast. This post will cover our first week.

We flew from Kansas City to Rome with no delays or issues. Our driver was waiting for us in Rome and took us directly to our hotel in the Trastevere neighborhood. From there we wandered a bit, trying to shake off the overnight flight.

Though we were jet-lagged we booked a golf cart tour for our first afternoon to give us an overview of the key sites. We’ll return for a more in depth look at Rome at the end of our trip.

The golf cart was a perfect way to get oriented and see the major sites. From the Trevi Fountain to the Colosseum and from the Vatican to the Spanish Steps, we caught glimpses of the most famous of Rome’s landmarks.

The next morning we took the train to Levanto, a small city on the northern border of Cinque Terre National Park.

The next morning our wonderful guide, Stefano, led us back to the train station and through the two of the five quaint, picturesque, seaside towns that make up Cinque Terre. Our first stop was Vernazza, with its small, protected harbor and its church dating to the 11th century .

After a walking tour up and down the steps of the town, we took the train to the village of Monterosso. Here we wandered the narrow lanes and ancient landmarks until we came to our lunch restaurant.

Pesto is a specialty in this region of Italy, so we took a lesson in pesto making before being served lunch. Steve got the sauce started by crushing fresh basil and pine nuts. Brynn finished, using her muscles to create a fine sauce.

Stefano left us after lunch and we explored two of the remaining three villages on our own. By the end of the day we had walked over 20,000 steps and climbed over 40 flights of stairs. We felt like we earned our gelato!

Our second day in Levanto was just as active. In the morning we borrowed bikes from the hotel and rode north on an old, seaside, rail trail to the villages of Bonassola and Framura. We couldn’t pass up a stop on the beach for a little dip.

After our picturesque ride, we met up with our guide Luca for a paddling trip down the Ligurian coast. The cliffs that make these ancient villages so pretty also make for a scenic paddle. Since the water is still a bit cool in late May, our wetsuits were appreciated. This was Brynn’s first time paddling in the open ocean and she did great!

We moved on from the beautiful Cinque Terre for a quick stop in Florence. We only had a day and a half in the city, but we crammed in as much as we could.

Even though we are early in the season the crowds in Florence can be overwhelming. Our museum guide, Fillipo, made it easy to skip the lines and the crowds at the Accademia. He guided us through the galleries, providing just enough detail and background to understand the most important works. Of course, we were most interested to see Michelangelo’s David. Considered one of the most important works of art on the planet, it truly takes your breath away.

After our museum visit we spent most of the rest of the day wandering the streets and alleyways of Florence, stopping frequently to shop, eat, or check out a market.

We found our way across the Arno River to the Piazzelle. Michelangelo where Steve, my mom, and I visited in 1999. It was fun to recreate our photo of mom in her honor. Steve gets credit for both photos.

We celebrated our 38th wedding anniversary while in Florence with a great meal and a bottle of wine. Thanks to Brynn for being our photographer!

We’re heading south and will post a recap of the second half of Brynn’s Italian adventure next week.

The Oregon Coast: Brookings to Lincoln City with Just One Broken Bone

We made it to Oregon on July 1 and embarked on an incredible journey northward.

We knew the Oregon Coast was beautiful but we had only explored the more northern portion in the past.  In previous trips we’d visited from Newport to Astoria. This time we intended to get to know the southern portion. 

Just across the California/Oregon border, the vibe changes pretty quickly. One thing we noticed right away is that gas is much cheaper in Oregon and they pump it for you. We also appreciated the state parks that dot the coast…one after another. The entire coast is basically a big state park. We stopped at the first one, Harris Beach State Park, in the little town of Brookings.

We were here just one night but quickly decided we could have stayed much longer. Private sites, access to the beach, and right off Highway 101, this park is a gem.IMG_9552

We then moved up to Coos Bay and settled in at the trendy Bayside Landing. This RV park also has a fleet of Airstream trailers you can rent, along with modernistic cabins. Bocce ball courts, an indoor pool, and a gym added to the luxury. Because of COVID we didn’t really use any of the amenities but the setting was pretty cool. We spent the 4th of July here and the area fireworks were pretty great.

During our time in the area we explored the coastal towns of Reedsport and the nearby Dean Creek Elk viewing area.

We also caught a cool event in Bandon called Circles in the Sand. A small group of volunteers draw elaborate labyrinths during low tide. The designs only last until the next tide washes it away. We just observed the designs and people walking the paths from the cliffside above, as I was still transitioning out of my boot and didn’t want to push it.

The afternoon of the fourth we stopped at the Whiskey Run Mountain Bike area so Steve could spend a little time on the bike.  While I waited at the trailhead with the dogs, he took a spin on the trails. IMG_9611I knew immediately when he returned about an hour later that he’d taken a fall. To be exact, it was an “endo” over the handlebars. A sagging shoulder and arm that couldn’t be lifted were the telltale signs of a broken collarbone. To the hospital we went.

After three hours in the ER and some X-rays, our diagnosis was confirmed. He was given a sling and some pain meds and told to see an orthopedic doctor in Eugene. And then he drove back to the campground. What a trooper!

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The next morning we headed north to Florence and our first Thousand Trails campground. When we bought our first trailer last year we were given a zone membership to Thousand Trails network of campgrounds. The membership basically gives us free campsites at their campgrounds throughout the Pacific Northwest. We plan to stay at nine or ten of these during this trip.  After one day of lying low and resting up, we were both ready to head back out and continue our explorations. We headed north to some of the most beautiful coastline we’ve ever seen.

First stop, the Darlingtonia Wayside, a roadside stop that features these cobra-like plants that eat insects. It was a quick stop, but really cool.

Next up was the Sea Lion Caves, a commercial attraction that has been a feature on the Oregon coast since the 1930s. We took an elevator down 300 feet into a seaside cave that houses over 150 Stellar Sea Lions.

The cave, one of the largest in the world, was originally discovered in 1880 by a sea captain and is the only known cave and rookery for wild sea lions on the American mainland.

Just north of the Sea Lion Caves is Heceta Head Lighthouse and Cape Perpetua Scenic Area. Sweeping views, rugged coastline, and Spruce forests make this area breathtaking and memorable. We were able to fit in a few short hikes, even with Steve’s arm in a sling and with my limp. We’ll let the photos speak for themselves.

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Our final stop on the coast was another Thousand Trails campground near the town of Newport. This stop gave us easy access to more of the incredible Oregon coastline. At Thousand Trails Whaler’s Rest we could walk or ride bikes to the beach in about three minutes, so we took advantage of that.

We took day trips north to Depoe Bay and Lincoln City and saw whales spouting right off the beach every day. We also made the Rogue Brewery, which is based in Newport, a frequent stop and each found new favorite beers.

IMG_9803Leaving the coast was hard but our adventures now continue inland, first with a stop to see the doctor in Eugene and then on to the mountains.  You can bet there’s more to come!