Our Happy Places: Horses, Bourbon, and Running

Two years ago we spent time in Kentucky and fell in love with the horse and bourbon culture. We couldn’t wait to return, so this week we settled ourselves in the state capital of Frankfort to continue our exploration of this beautiful area. 

Kentucky views

Let’s start with horses. During this visit, we were able to catch the last day of racing at Keeneland’s spring meet. Our general admission tickets allowed us to approach the rail and see the horses up close.

Despite some periods of heavy rain, it was a fun afternoon, cheering the ponies, losing a few dollars, and watching the people. 

Dad always said, “bet on a grey horse on a sloppy track.” Well, that didn’t work for us today but we gave it a shot!

This trip coincided with one of the premier equestrian events in the world: the Defender Kentucky Three Day Event.

The competition draws Olympic-level competitors including Michael Jung, Boyd Martin, and Harry Meade.

We attended on Saturday, which featured the cross country competition. Over a four mile course, riders and their mounts race the clock over 20+ fence combinations. As you can see from the photos, we were able to get very close to the horses and were able to walk through the course, seeing the event from all angles. What a day!

And, to finish the horse part of our visit, we took a tour of Spy Coast Farms, one of the leading performance horse breeders and trainers. In the fastest two hours ever, we toured the 800+ acres seeing the training, rehabilitation, and breeding facilities.

We met the stallions, who are treated as royalty. The best part, of course, was meeting the mares and recently foaled babies. Did you know that in operations like these they use “recipient mares,” or what we might consider surrogates, to carry and birth the babies for top performance mares? 

In between horsey fun, we hit a number of distilleries we missed when we were here two years ago. The bourbon industry has been exploding, so there were quite a few new operations added to the Bourbon Trail.

During our week in central Kentucky we visited: J. Mattingly, Buffalo Trace (twice), Castle and Key, Whiskey Thief, RD1, Bluegrass Distillers, and Four Roses. Each stop is a unique experience.

For example, tasting at Buffalo Trace is free, and every day they sell a different featured, sometimes rare bourbon. At Castle and Key, we opted for a taste amidst the stunningly beautiful grounds. 

RD1 is moving to a new facility in Lexington, and we were given a tour of the yet-to-be-completed facility and a private tasting experience. Soon they will offer a premium blending experience, and we were invited by the tasting room manager to try some of the samples right from the tiny barrels. 

At Four Roses we opted for the legacy tour, which gave us access to the fermentation tanks and historic grounds. Of course, a guided tasting of their tasty bourbon followed the tour. 

We are leaving Kentucky with our supplies restocked.

We started each morning at the local Planet Fitness, which was a convenient way to maintain a little fitness while on the road. We’re thankful for this useful benefit from United Healthcare.

Leaving bourbon country, we traveled 90 minutes north for a marathon in Steve’s 40th state, Ohio. Before race day, we hit a few of northern Kentucky’s bourbon distilleries. Each stop gives us another stamp in our Bourbon Trail passport book, with goal of filling the whole book! We also found Party Source, considered to be the largest liquor store east of the Mississippi.

The Flying Pig in Cincinnati is considered one of the best races on the calendar, with over 5,000 marathoners and 49,000 total participants in the weekend’s pig-themed events. The expo, sponsored by Proctor and Gamble, was a celebration of running with lots of free P&G samples.

Race day met Steve with off and on rain but decent temperatures for running. With this he has just 10 more states before completing all 50 states.

Lexington: For the Love of Horses and Bourbon

If you love horses, Lexington is your place. If you love bourbon, Lexington is your place. Heck, if you don’t like either but love beautiful countryside and a nice urban feel, Lexington is your place. We’ve spent eight nights here and it wasn’t enough!

First let’s talk horses! Lexington is considered the “horse capital of the world,” with the most well-known farms and horses on the planet. We stayed at the Kentucky Horse Park Campground, which is connected to the Kentucky Horse Park, home to the International Museum of the Horse and a massive show facility.

 

I was lucky enough to grow up around Arabian horses and often visited the barns of Lasma Arabians. *Bask++ was the king of the barn and to this day one of the most legendary Arabian stallions ever. So, imagine my surprise when we entered the museum to find a life-sized bronze of *Bask++ dominating the lobby!

Later we walked through the Al-Marah Arabian Horse Gallery and on the grounds found *Bask++’s grave. It may seem unremarkable to someone who doesn’t know Arabians, but for me it was like arriving to Mecca. 

Also at the Kentucky Horse Park we met several of the resident horses including Connor, a massive Belgian and Manny, a rare American Cream Draft. During the season there are over 1,000 horses of 100’s of breeds on the grounds. Unfortunately we arrived at the start of the winter season and only about 100 horses were in residence to meet.

The other cool thing about staying at the Kentucky Horse Park Campground was proximity to the show grounds. While Steve spent Saturday afternoon watching his beloved Nebraska Cornhuskers on TV, I wandered the grounds of the US Dressage Finals and caught some great horsemanship.

In Lexington, horse racing is based at Keeneland. While not as well known as Churchill Downs, the track has a legacy as the place to train and race if you are a Derby contender. We toured Keeneland on the second day of the fall breeding stock sale.

A staple on the industry’s calendar, the breeding stock sale brings the Thoroughbred world together under one roof to buy and sell the future of the sport. Over 3,500 horses are sold over a seven day period, with the most expensive horses selling earliest. On day one, two mares sold for $6 million each. Being there on day two meant we got to see some of the high dollar mares auctioned to those who hope to cash in soon. Check out the prices in the photos below. 

While Keeneland is the first stop for horse lovers who visit Lexington, number two on the list has to be Claiborne Farms, the industry-leading farm that was home to Secretariat. During our tour of the stallion barns we met two stallions up close. War of Will won the 2019 Preakness and earned almost $1.9 million while he was racing. His stud fee is now $25,000.  

We also met War of Will’s sire, the acclaimed War Front. As one of the top producing Thoroughbred stallions, his stud fee is $100,000, and he has been syndicated with a current value of $83 million. I fed him a candy and got a handful of drool that I wished I could have bottled! He also gives really good hugs!

Finally, a trip to Claiborne Farms always takes you past the personal pasture of Secretariat and to his final resting place. Secretariat, commonly known as Big Red, won the triple crown in 1973, setting and still holding the fastest time record in all three races. He is considered by many to be the greatest race horse of all time. Seeing his grave and hearing about the impact he had on so many choked me up, to say the least.

Claiborne is set just outside of Paris, KY, and the town was dedicating the Secretariat Park when we were there. Unfortunately we didn’t get to see the sculpture, but the park was stunning. We also had the opportunity to have our photo taken with Big Red.

Okay, enough about horses…how about some bourbon? Our multi-week exploration of Kentucky’s Bourbon Trail continued. In all, between our time in Bardstown, Louisville, and Lexington, we visited 15 distilleries. Some were big, name-brand operations and others were small craft distilleries where we met with the master distiller. Steve still doesn’t have a favorite…he says his favorite is the one in his hand! In case you’re curious, here’s the list of distilleries we visited while in Kentucky:

  • Richter’s
  • Evan Williams
  • Bulleit
  • Heaven Hill
  • Bardstown Boubon Co.
  • Maker’s Mark
  • Woodford Reserve
  • Town Branch
  • Jeptha Creed
  • Willett
  • Limestone Branch
  • James E. Pepper
  • Hartfield & Co,
  • Buffalo Trace
  • Barrel House

Every distillery was unique, as was its process and final product. 

One interesting experience was at Buffalo Trace. We arrived at 11 a.m. on Sunday to a huge crowd waiting to get in. We figured it was just a popular place. Later we learned that they have a shortage of their specialty bourbons and when one is released, locals come to buy their allotment. The day we arrived, Eagle Rare, a bourbon aged for 10 years was available. Since we waited for 45 minutes to get through the doors, we figured we better buy a bottle in addition to our walk around the property and our tasting.

At Bulleit we skipped the tour and joined in a Bourbon Brain trivia contest. I guess we’ve now been on enough tours to know the ins and outs of bourbon because we won!!! Hats, mugs, and a cocktail made for a fun afternoon at Bulleit!

We’re beginning our travels southward, with some fun stops ahead before we reach the beach. We’ll keep you posted!