Two weeks in Italy is a whirlwind! We had an amazing time with our niece Brynn, and the last few days were just as packed as the first.
Colosseum Enjoying Rome
After leaving Amalfi, we spent our last three days in Rome. Our main goals were the Vatican and the Colosseum. Both are super popular, so we booked guided tours.
Colosseum Sistine Chapel
First up, we visited the Vatican Museums. Our guide explained the sculptures by Michelangelo and the huge paintings by Rafaello. The three-hour tour ended with the Sistine Chapel. By then, we were exhausted, but we still loved the incredible work Michelangelo did on the ceiling and thought it was cool to be standing where popes are chosen during the conclave.
Vatican Museum Inside the Vatican MuseumSchool of Athens
After lunch and some shopping, we joined our private guide Tatiana for a tour of St. Peter’s Basilica. We started in St. Peter’s Square and learned about the pope’s regular visits and the history of the huge complex we’ve seen on TV.
Since we were in Rome during a Jubilee year (a once-every-25-years celebration), there was a lot going on. The Jubilee also provided us with the rare opportunity to walk through the Basilica’s Holy Doors.
Holy DoorsHoly Doors only open during JubileeBasilica altarSt Peter’s DomeThe faithful
Inside the basilica, we were amazed by how big it is and all the art and treasures. Michelangelo’s Pietá, carved in polished Carrara marble, is truly stunning.
Pietà
While we were in the basilica, we saw a procession of pilgrims and a mass led by red-robed cardinals. Some of the side chapels were also being used for services.
On our second full day in Rome, we explored the legendary Colosseum. Our amazing guide Paolo brought the ancient arena to life by telling us what a day would have been like for ancient Romans who came to watch the show.
Learning to fight like a Gladiator Brynn won the fightView of the lower levels Resting on ancient marble columns
After exploring the Colosseum from all sides, we went to see the Roman Forum, the ancient city that includes the tomb of Julius Caesar.
Palestine HillSite of Caesar’s cremationRoman ForumWalking through the ForumArch of Titus
The remainder of our time in Rome was spent shopping the cute shops around our hotel in the Monti neighborhood and eating one more plate of pasta, one more gelato, and one more look at the incredible Colosseum.
Colosseum at nightOne last plate of pasta
As our Italian adventure came to an end, we were grateful for the opportunity to share the beauty and value of travel with Brynn.
Our second week in Italy was as busy as the first. If you missed part one of this three-part blog, you can catch up here. Last week we arrived in Rome and explored Cinque Terre and Florence. In our second week we checked out the beautiful Amalfi coast and key sites in Rome.
Cooking at Amalfi Heavens GardensPositano
Because we covered so much ground, this post will summarize the first half of week two and we’ll finish up the trip summary with a part three.
We took the train from Florence to Salerno, which is the town on the southern end of the Amalfi Coast.
Train travel is fun!
At first we weren’t sure Salerno was a good choice as it’s not actually on the Amalfi Coast. However, our travel agent’s recommendation was spot on, as being based in Salerno made it easy to explore the coast as well as Pompeii, yet rest in a less touristic city.
Salerno waterfront
On our first day we took a day-long boat tour of the coast that included stops in Positano and Amalfi, along with three swimming breaks, lunch, prosecco, and lemoncello.
Prosecco to start the cruiseSpectacular Amalfi coastline
On a beautifully sunny day we cruised the colorful coast, admiring the famed lemon groves and hillside towns. Stopping to swim in the turquoise water of the Mediterranean was also a highlight.
Thinking about jumping inShe jumped!Swimming in the Mediterranean SeaFiordo di Furore
We found the towns of Amalfi and Positano to be overly crowded with tourists. While the towns are spectacular, we were happy to return to quiet Salerno in the evening.
Lemon gelato in an Amalfi lemonStrolling Amalfi TownPositano beachA welcoming place!In crowded Positano
Another highlight of our time in the Amalfi area was a half-day cooking class at Amalfi Heaven Gardens. This top-rated experience lived up to the hype.
Touring the gardensReady to cookBut first, wine!Expert chef
We toured the terraced gardens and picked vegetables for our meal. Then, we worked with the chef to prepare an elaborate meal of fresh salads and appetizers, including stuffed zucchini flowers and eggplant bruschetta.
Steve is supervisingFilling zucchini blossoms Our creations
The main course featured gnocchi which we made by hand. Brynn got to smash the potatoes, and we all got to roll the small potato balls into the traditional shape.
Gnocchi masterpiece
Our meal, which was prepared in an idyllic setting overlooking the Amalfi coast, finished with homemade lemoncello and cream puffs.
Lemoncello Cream puffs
The staff was entertaining and the day just flew by.
On our final day in Salerno we navigated the train system to reach the ruins of Pompeii. On my birthday, we were guided through the vast complex by our incredible guide Rafaela, who is an expert archeologist at the site.
Rafaela was incredible!Ancient fast food restaurant Preserved paintings in a large homeIncredible art, preserved by ash
She was able to show us the most important features of this lost city. We saw the extensive homes, public baths, and key temples of this early Roman city, frozen in time. It was a great way to finish our time in the area while checking one more thing from my bucket list.
Exploring the ForumPlaster forms of victimsBrynn & Steve at Pompeii Plaster form of preserved dog
Our time on Amalfi coast was punctuated by daily stops at the local gelateria where Brynn always got lemon. We spent our evenings the way locals do, strolling the waterfront and watching the sunset. The Amalfi coast is as magical as they say.
Exploring Salerno’s narrow streets Salerno waterfrontOne more lemon gelato
And our story is not over yet. In the next post we’ll give you a report on our time exploring Vatican City and ancient sites in Rome, including the Colosseum.
As DINKS, we didn’t have the normal expenses that accompany children. And, as you know, we value travel as an educational experience. As such, we have offered all of our nieces and nephews a trip of their choosing when they turn 16. Our latest adventures are with Brynn, Steve’s brother Gary’s sweet daughter.
Sweet Brynn
Brynn told us several years ago that Italy was her choice. Our two week trip takes us to Rome, Cinque Terre, Florence, and the Amalfi Coast. This post will cover our first week.
KC Airport Ready to flyAirport conversations We made it to Rome
We flew from Kansas City to Rome with no delays or issues. Our driver was waiting for us in Rome and took us directly to our hotel in the Trastevere neighborhood. From there we wandered a bit, trying to shake off the overnight flight.
Theatre of PompeyWandering past Julius Caesar’s assignation sitePantheonAll’Antico Vinao sandwichesFirst of many gelatosOn the banks of the TiberSteve drinking from one of Rome’s many fountains
Though we were jet-lagged we booked a golf cart tour for our first afternoon to give us an overview of the key sites. We’ll return for a more in depth look at Rome at the end of our trip.
The golf cart was a perfect way to get oriented and see the major sites. From the Trevi Fountain to the Colosseum and from the Vatican to the Spanish Steps, we caught glimpses of the most famous of Rome’s landmarks.
Piazza NavonaFountains at Piazza NavonaTrevi Fountain Trevi Fountain Top of the Spanish StepsFirst look at the Colosseum St Peter’s Basilica
The next morning we took the train to Levanto, a small city on the northern border of Cinque Terre National Park.
Rome Train Station Long train rideFiguring out the trainsWe made it to Levanto
The next morning our wonderful guide, Stefano, led us back to the train station and through the two of the five quaint, picturesque, seaside towns that make up Cinque Terre. Our first stop was Vernazza, with its small, protected harbor and its church dating to the 11th century .
Stefano guiding us in VernazzaVineyards above VernazzaHigh above VernazzaVernazza was our favorite VernazzaVernazzaVernazza harbor
After a walking tour up and down the steps of the town, we took the train to the village of Monterosso. Here we wandered the narrow lanes and ancient landmarks until we came to our lunch restaurant.
Catching the train Monterosso al Mare
Pesto is a specialty in this region of Italy, so we took a lesson in pesto making before being served lunch. Steve got the sauce started by crushing fresh basil and pine nuts. Brynn finished, using her muscles to create a fine sauce.
Using the mortar to crush the fresh basilWorking in the local olive oilEnjoying a special lunch
Stefano left us after lunch and we explored two of the remaining three villages on our own. By the end of the day we had walked over 20,000 steps and climbed over 40 flights of stairs. We felt like we earned our gelato!
RiomaggioreManarolaRiomaggiore Well deserved gelato stopTired travelers in Vernazza
Our second day in Levanto was just as active. In the morning we borrowed bikes from the hotel and rode north on an old, seaside, rail trail to the villages of Bonassola and Framura. We couldn’t pass up a stop on the beach for a little dip.
View from the trailOld railway trail Stopping to enjoy the viewOcean views along the way Fun along the trailThank goodness for the lights in the tunnelA little beach stopAnd a dip in the Med SeaIncredible views
After our picturesque ride, we met up with our guide Luca for a paddling trip down the Ligurian coast. The cliffs that make these ancient villages so pretty also make for a scenic paddle. Since the water is still a bit cool in late May, our wetsuits were appreciated. This was Brynn’s first time paddling in the open ocean and she did great!
Wetsuits 💕Paddling partnersAlong the coastIncredible rock cliffsA happy girlThree happy paddlers
We moved on from the beautiful Cinque Terre for a quick stop in Florence. We only had a day and a half in the city, but we crammed in as much as we could.
Cathedral of Santa Maria del FiorePiazza della RepubblicaPonte VecchioSunset in Florence Inside Palazzo Vecchio
Even though we are early in the season the crowds in Florence can be overwhelming. Our museum guide, Fillipo, made it easy to skip the lines and the crowds at the Accademia. He guided us through the galleries, providing just enough detail and background to understand the most important works. Of course, we were most interested to see Michelangelo’s David. Considered one of the most important works of art on the planet, it truly takes your breath away.
Brynn with a prisonerFirst look at The DavidShe saw him!
After our museum visit we spent most of the rest of the day wandering the streets and alleyways of Florence, stopping frequently to shop, eat, or check out a market.
Pastries at the Mercato CentraleAffogato from the wine window at Vivoli Milkshake breakAffogato & lemon gelatoPonte Vecchio Anniversary dinner
We found our way across the Arno River to the Piazzelle. Michelangelo where Steve, my mom, and I visited in 1999. It was fun to recreate our photo of mom in her honor. Steve gets credit for both photos.
2025 — 1999
We celebrated our 38th wedding anniversary while in Florence with a great meal and a bottle of wine. Thanks to Brynn for being our photographer!
We’re heading south and will post a recap of the second half of Brynn’s Italian adventure next week.
Marnie and Steve Travel 