Brynn’s Italy – Part One

As DINKS, we didn’t have the normal expenses that accompany children. And, as you know, we value travel as an educational experience. As such, we have offered all of our nieces and nephews a trip of their choosing when they turn 16. Our latest adventures are with Brynn, Steve’s brother Gary’s sweet daughter.

Brynn told us several years ago that Italy was her choice. Our two week trip takes us to Rome, Cinque Terre, Florence, and the Amalfi Coast. This post will cover our first week.

We flew from Kansas City to Rome with no delays or issues. Our driver was waiting for us in Rome and took us directly to our hotel in the Trastevere neighborhood. From there we wandered a bit, trying to shake off the overnight flight.

Though we were jet-lagged we booked a golf cart tour for our first afternoon to give us an overview of the key sites. We’ll return for a more in depth look at Rome at the end of our trip.

The golf cart was a perfect way to get oriented and see the major sites. From the Trevi Fountain to the Colosseum and from the Vatican to the Spanish Steps, we caught glimpses of the most famous of Rome’s landmarks.

The next morning we took the train to Levanto, a small city on the northern border of Cinque Terre National Park.

The next morning our wonderful guide, Stefano, led us back to the train station and through the two of the five quaint, picturesque, seaside towns that make up Cinque Terre. Our first stop was Vernazza, with its small, protected harbor and its church dating to the 11th century .

After a walking tour up and down the steps of the town, we took the train to the village of Monterosso. Here we wandered the narrow lanes and ancient landmarks until we came to our lunch restaurant.

Pesto is a specialty in this region of Italy, so we took a lesson in pesto making before being served lunch. Steve got the sauce started by crushing fresh basil and pine nuts. Brynn finished, using her muscles to create a fine sauce.

Stefano left us after lunch and we explored two of the remaining three villages on our own. By the end of the day we had walked over 20,000 steps and climbed over 40 flights of stairs. We felt like we earned our gelato!

Our second day in Levanto was just as active. In the morning we borrowed bikes from the hotel and rode north on an old, seaside, rail trail to the villages of Bonassola and Framura. We couldn’t pass up a stop on the beach for a little dip.

After our picturesque ride, we met up with our guide Luca for a paddling trip down the Ligurian coast. The cliffs that make these ancient villages so pretty also make for a scenic paddle. Since the water is still a bit cool in late May, our wetsuits were appreciated. This was Brynn’s first time paddling in the open ocean and she did great!

We moved on from the beautiful Cinque Terre for a quick stop in Florence. We only had a day and a half in the city, but we crammed in as much as we could.

Even though we are early in the season the crowds in Florence can be overwhelming. Our museum guide, Fillipo, made it easy to skip the lines and the crowds at the Accademia. He guided us through the galleries, providing just enough detail and background to understand the most important works. Of course, we were most interested to see Michelangelo’s David. Considered one of the most important works of art on the planet, it truly takes your breath away.

After our museum visit we spent most of the rest of the day wandering the streets and alleyways of Florence, stopping frequently to shop, eat, or check out a market.

We found our way across the Arno River to the Piazzelle. Michelangelo where Steve, my mom, and I visited in 1999. It was fun to recreate our photo of mom in her honor. Steve gets credit for both photos.

We celebrated our 38th wedding anniversary while in Florence with a great meal and a bottle of wine. Thanks to Brynn for being our photographer!

We’re heading south and will post a recap of the second half of Brynn’s Italian adventure next week.

Next Up: Wisconsin Dells with Friends

You can’t do a tour of Wisconsin and miss the Dells. Much like Branson or other highly touristed areas, the Dells are classic. Think waterparks, mini-golf, and Ripley’s Believe It or Not. We weren’t really interested in any of those attractions, but we did have a fun time with some great friends. 

Near the Wisconsin Dells are two beautiful state parks. We started at Mirror Lake on a warm, rainy morning with a kayak in an area called “the narrows.” In a limestone cut through the lake we paddled through downed trees and moss-covered water. 

Shortly after our paddle we were joined by our Prescott neighbors, Dave and Peggy Armstrong. This is the third summer the Armstrongs have planned to cross paths with us during our summer travels. They met us in Montana two years ago and last year joined us in Homer, Alaska. This year it was Wisconsin! 

We started our joint adventures with a morning of fishing for the guys and hiking for Peggy and I at Devils Lake State Park. Devils Lake is known for its unique rock formations high above the lake. Devil’s Door and Balanced Rock made getting lost on the way up worth it. We enjoyed our hike and the guys even caught a few fish!

After our morning at Devils Lake and lunch at a Wisconsin staple, Culver’s, we explored a site I’ve been wanting to see for many years: Circus World. Yes, I’ve harbored a secret love for the circus since I was very young, and Circus World just rekindled that passion! Located in Baraboo, the winter home of the Ringling Brothers Circus, Circus World boasts the world’s largest collection of restored circus wagons, circus posters, and even more memorabilia than you can imagine. After exploring the exhibits which are housed in the Ringling’s old elephant barns, we enjoyed a mini-circus under the big top. 

This is the last year Ringling’s elephants will be part of the show, as the new version of the circus, which is debuting this fall, will be animal-free. I took that as a sign that I needed to fulfill my dreams of being one of the girls who gets to ride the elephants in the circus. The only thing that would have made it better was to be able to wear the pretty costume while atop the elephant!

It was a thrill of a lifetime and I learned something: I’m allergic to elephants! A little itching and hives was so worth the experience.

Our kayak at Mirror Lake was so awesome that we returned with Peggy and Dave to try it again. Peggy and I kayaked into the narrows on a clear and sunny morning while the boys tried their hand at fishing. We had a successful paddle and the guys caught nothing.

You can’t come to the Dells and not do the classic Dells cruise, which has been operating in some form since the mid 1850s. The four of us took the recommended upper dells cruise which lasted about two hours and took us up the Wisconsin River to view geologic features that have defined this area for ages.

We stopped at the Witches Gulch and walked through the narrow passages that have been carved by wind and water over time.

Our second stop was Stand Rock, a giant sandstone pillar that’s home to the famous jumping dogs. They used to have children do the jumping but that’s not allowed anymore. 

We finished our stay in the Dells with a visit to the Ringling Mansion and adjacent brewery. Steve was there for the brewery and Peggy, Dave, and I did the mansion tour, learning about the life as a Ringling. 

Our time with Peggy and Dave was short but we packed a lot in, including some great meals! Thanks for joining us guys!

From the Dells we drove a little less than 150 miles to Chippewa Falls. Here we visited the original home of Leinenkugel Brewery. Established in 1867 by Jacob Leinenkugel, the brewery is still run by members of the family. We enjoyed our tour through the brew house and bottling facility almost as much as we enjoyed our tasting. 

We’ve been on the go and will soon have another location to tell you about. Hint: Steve’s running another marathon or two.

Just a Start in the Florida Keys

When we say we are in “the Keys” most people assume we are partying in Key West. In fact, we are over 100 miles away from the party town and have spent a busy two weeks exploring the “upper keys.” The Florida Keys are made up of 1,700 little islands beginning about 15 miles south of Miami and extending westward beyond Key West. The word “key” is derived from the Spanish “cayo.” With so many little islands, we have a lot of territory to explore! We started with Key Largo.

Luckily, we snagged a two-week reservation at the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park campground, which made this a more affordable stay than other options in the Keys. Our next-door neighbors in the campground, Dave and Cinda, were from Arizona, and we had a lot in common. The four of us enjoyed excursions, happy hours, and dinners together, which really made our stay here even more special. 

The park itself is mostly underwater. We took the snorkeling excursion to the reef twice and were amazed with the clarity of the water and the health of the reef. The water temperature is about 76 degrees, so it’s possible to swim and snorkel with just a swimsuit. We have our wetsuits with us, so we used those just for a little extra comfort. Lots of colorful fish, calm blue waters, and plenty of sunshine made for two perfect afternoons, one of which we shared with Dave and Cinda.

The park is also known for its kayaking trails through the mangroves. We took the Botē kayaks out several times to paddle around and look for cool things in the water.

Steve also set out on a few mornings to fish from the kayak. He caught a tree and a small pinfish, but that was about it. He had better luck fishing from a nearby bridge.

The Wild Bird Sanctuary is a small, local refuge for a variety of birds. We checked it out one afternoon while we were out poking around. There are a number of these little environmentally focused organizations through the Keys and we always try to stop and support these important organizations. 

One day we had the opportunity to travel back to the Miami International Airport to meet up with our dear friend Lucia Idarraga and her nephew Alvaro who were passing through on their way back to Colombia. There weren’t many options for breakfast in the very crowded airport terminal so we set up our own breakfast cafe curbside. It was a beautiful morning and we were thankful to spend some time with our special friends. 

A highlight of every day here in the Keys is sunset. Many of the area bars and restaurants have a sunset celebration so we checked out as many as we could! That means we’ve got A LOT of sunset pictures! We’re only two weeks into our six week Keys tour, so you can expect a few more sunset photos coming your way!

Key Largo has a warm, community feel. Steve got a haircut, I got a pedicure, we went to the library, and even gave blood one day in typical Keys fashion—there were chickens!

We met a number of locals along the way who were happy to recommend sunset watching locations and favorite restaurants. The Holiday Lighted Boat Parade was a fun local event we shared with our friends Dave and Cinda.

We’ve got a lot more Keys to check out. Soon we are heading to the southernmost point in the USA.