Baja’s Grey Whales

About 10,000 people each year make the pilgrimage to Guerrero Negro, Baja California Sur, Mexico to experience what is known as the “world’s largest whale nursery.” Seeing the whales was the highlight of our 15-day Fantasy RV tour, but it was only part of this grand adventure. 

We joined our group of 22 RVs in Ensenada and after one more visit to the wine country, we headed south. The day we departed Ensenada, cartel kingpin El Mencho was killed in mainland Mexico, setting off a wave of attacks centered in Puerto Vallarta and spreading across the country. While driving south we were temporarily stalled by a tomato truck that had been set on fire, creating a blockade. Here’s a photo taken from social media of the explosion.

Blockade north of Camalú

We just saw the aftermath (no photos), and that was enough to caused some concern in our group. In fact, three RVs turned back the next day. We, however, decided to continue on since the violence in Baja was centered around the border and Tijuana. Our decision to proceed southward turned out to be sound, as it was peaceful for the rest of the trip. 

Passing through Baja’s majestic desert topography, we saw wild horses and unique landscapes. Camping amidst the cardònes and cirios was like being in a western movie. 

After three days of driving we arrived in Guerrero Negro. For the next two mornings we visited Ojo de Liebre lagoon and one of the largest concentrations of grey whales on the planet. 

After feeding all spring and summer in Alaska, the entire grey whale population heads south to three Mexican lagoons to give birth and nurse their calves. While in the calm waters of the lagoon, the whales show great curiosity and playfulness toward the boats. 

We were approached by numerous 35-40 foot specimens who seemed to be just as interested in us as we were in them. They allowed us to pet them and even sneak a kiss!

One even used its nose to push our boat in circles for over a minute. And there’s nothing like getting a whale blowhole shower.

We also spent time with a mama whale who was teaching her baby to approach us. The experience was definitely one-of-a-kind!

Guerrero Negro is also the site of one of the world’s largest salt production plants and it’s the high salinity of the lagoons that makes them attractive to the whales. One afternoon Steve joined the group for a tour of the massive salt facility and was amazed by the operation.

After our time in Guerrero Negro, we traveled across the peninsula to the sleepy village of Bahia de Los Ángeles (BLA), set on the Sea of Cortez. Our beachfront campsites were the perfect setting for kayaking and beach barbecues.

Steve and his buddies went fishing and caught large, yellowfin tuna that was delicious on the Blackstone. 

Fantasy RV tours fed us extremely well, and we are now in detox mode! Fresh seafood and Mexican dishes, along with plenty of margaritas were on our menu most days.

While this was a spectacular trip, our new friends made it even more special. Jay & June and Jim & Yujing were on both of the back-to-back tours, and the six of us became a formidable team. We shared meals, hikes, happy hours, laundry trips, and plenty of laughs.

Travel is always enriching, but it’s the friends you make along the way that truly make it exceptional. We are grateful to have made four, great new friends on this Mexican adventure. 

Fresh Condo, New Friends: Another Month in Mexico

We’ve just finished our second month in Puerto Peñasco, Mexico at the Playa Bonita RV park while waiting for our condo to be renovated. What a month it’s been!

February was punctuated by visits from dear friends. First we had a great weekend with Michelle and Owen May. The four of us have spent a lot of time together in Puerto Peñasco over the years, so we searched for new experiences this time, in honor of Owen’s birthday. We hit at least four new restaurants, Jessy’s, Grapes & Barley, La Negrita, and Ole Mole.

We played pickleball and visited Fernando at the Tequila Factory. Sunsets on the beach too!

One Saturday we met up two of Steve’s former colleagues. Cheryl and Janie are so much fun! They even invited me to join them at Sip and Paint the next evening.

We had a great visit with “The Toms,” our long-time friends and now Prescott neighbors. While we missed dear Nancy terribly, we honored her by visiting some of her favorite haunts and toasting her memory more than a few times.

Dave and Peggy Armstrong, our fun neighbors from Prescott, made a quick trip down. So far they’ve visited us three times while we’ve been RVing: Montana, Alaska, and Mexico. Despite a cool and windy weekend we had a great time showing them our favorite places. They hadn’t been to Rocky Point for 40 years so there was a lot to show off and, they even got to meet our long-time friend Betty at Regina’s Mexican Cocina.

In between visitors, we enjoyed time with new friends we met at the RV park, including one more session of Sip and Paint. Even Bob got in on some action that night!

One of the downsides of RV travel is making friends only to move on down the road. We’ll miss Ian, Bev & McDuff; Ken, Caren & Lulu; and Karen, Mike & Bo; and so many others we hung out with. Dinners out, sunset happy hours, and a lot of time standing around swapping stories!

I’ll especially miss my “boyfriend” McDuff, the most fun poodle I’ve ever gotten to play with! Sorry, Bev, for destroying so many of McDuff’s toys!

From these photos, you’d think all we did was eat while we were in Puerto Peñasco. Well, that might have been true, but in the midst of all the fun, we spent time most days at the condo, following the renovation process.

While construction was to be done before we left, it wasn’t meant to be. When we departed the tile work and painting was mostly done and final details still needed to be taken care of. We are confident (fingers crossed) that it will be done and ready for renters by next weekend! Here are a few shots from the day we left.

We had to hit the road. We’re currently headed east to Austin for 10 days of music, comedy, and learning at SXSW. If you aren’t familiar with one of the largest tech/music and more festivals on Earth, you can learn more here. We promise to post updates when we get there.

And the fun continues…

Winter Camping in Mexico

We’ve been offline for a few months, mostly staying stationery at home in Prescott to celebrate the holidays and enjoy the luxuries of “home.”  But you can only stay put for so long before the itch returns to hit the road.  Plus, the weather in Prescott has turned cold and icy, so it was time to head south! 

We are spending the next few months at the Playa Bonita RV Park, on the beach in Puerto Peñasco, Mexico. We’ve owned our condo here for 20 years, and it was time for some renovations. We’re staying in the fifth wheel while the condo is under construction and it’s been a fun new way to experience our little Mexican town. 

Playa Bonita is one of about four RV parks here in Peñasco, and it’s been here forever. Many of our fellow campers are here for months, Americans and Canadians escaping the winters up north. It’s a super fun environment, and we’re really enjoying the group bike rides, weekly “shot” bingo, and happy hour at the beach at sunset. The water man delivers a bottle to our door for $1, propane man will refill our tanks without moving, and we had our rig washed and waxed for a fraction of the cost in the US. Even the dogs are enjoying the Mexican lifestyle, with $15 haircuts at the local dog spa. 

One day Steve discovered a leak somewhere in the bowels of the trailer. He worked hard to find out where the leak originated and then we were able to hire a guy to come fix it. Problem solved!

One weekend we fully participated in Roger Clyne’s January Jam, a three day music event that features one of our favorite bands. Good food, good drink, and great music right outside our door made for a fun few days. 

Most days we head about a mile down the beach to the condo to check on the progress and to workout in the gym. It’s been good to be here to supervise the construction as it seems there is always something to decide or adjust. We’ve had to pick out countertops at the local shop, which allowed us to watch the craftsman at work. 

Overall the remodel is coming along very well, appears to be on schedule, and is looking pretty good!  Our crew has been very professional and appreciative of the daily goodies and Friday afternoon beers. Here are some pictures of the work being done and you can be sure we’ll post “after” pictures!

Of course there’s been lots of time for the beach, soaking in the sun, and enjoying the slow lifestyle that is Puerto Peñasco! We are grateful that Mitch made the trip down to visit for a few days and brought us some needed supplies from Costco.  More visitors are expected in the next month and we’re looking forward to seeing our friends!

We probably won’t have much more to report for awhile as there’s not much variation day to day – sun, fun, relax, repeat.  But rest assured, we are enjoying every minute!