Zion National Park

We’re back on the road with a huge itinerary ahead of us. Over the next six months we’ll be traveling in our beloved Solitude fifth wheel from almost coast to coast. We’ll bring you regular updates, as usual, and our first stop was a doozie!

Zion National Park, located in southern Utah, is the third most visited national park in the country. The crowds we met proved the statistic accurate. We learned that arriving early in the morning was the best strategy for getting into the park, getting a parking space, getting onto the required shuttles, and enjoying the trails. By noon the place is swarmed!

With a whole week here we paced ourselves with a day or two of relaxation at our beautiful RV park, Zion River Resort, where we had a riverside site and could hear the Virgin River roaring past. 

The Virgin River is what created this incredible landscape, cutting canyons large and small into the ancient sandstone. One morning we followed the river from the main visitors center to the end of the park road with our bikes. My new pedal-assist mountain bike was an awesome way to make this gradual eight mile climb while keeping up with Steve. We saw great wildlife along the way and reached the Riverwalk trail before most of the crowds.

From there we walked the one mile easy trail to the end where the famed Narrows hike begins. We would have loved to hike the Narrows, a walk up the river through narrow slot canyons, but the water levels this time of year made that impossible. 

Another popular hike in Zion Canyon is to the Emerald Pools. Again, we started early one chilly morning and beat most of the crowds to the Lower, Middle and Upper Pools. Each stop on the four mile round trip brought us to a lush oasis amidst the red sandstone cliffs. Along the way there are incredible views of the canyon.

Not all of the action is found in Zion Canyon, so we made a few roadtrips to explore the outlying areas. On Saturday we hit up a great farmer’s market in St. George and replenished supplies. We also spent one day driving north out of the park towards what we thought would be the highway to Cedar Breaks National Monument. We would never recommend heading out without a little research about the roads, but we don’t always follow our own rules. We drove north on a dirt road for about an hour and half, expecting to hit the northern highway. Beautiful views, lots of wildlife, it was a very pleasant drive…until we hit snow. Using our Garmin GPS we could see that we had climbed from an elevation of about 3500 feet in Zion to over 9000 feet. Suddenly we started seeing more and more snow until we hit pavement, which was a relief. Until we got stuck! 

Luckily Steve is an expert driver and our four-wheel drive worked like a charm, and we were able to back out of the snow and back out onto the dirt road where we could turn around and head back the way we came. Scary? A little. And adventure? You bet!

Our drive back to Zion took us through the Zion-Mt. Carmel tunnel. Built in 1930, the tunnel is restricted to vehicles under 11’4”. We couldn’t drive through with our RV, but the truck fit just fine!

We also did a roadtrip to the north unit of Zion National Park, where most visitors do not visit. The area is called Kolob Canyon, and we enjoyed the five mile scenic road and the short one mile hike to the Timber Creek Overlook. The views of snow-covered peaks, red rock monoliths, and the Kaibab Plateau all the way to the north rim of the Grand Canyon were spectacular. 

Our Zion grand finale was the hike up the West Rim Trail to Scouts Lookout and beyond. Originally we had planned to hike to the top of Angels Landing via this route and had even received a permit for the dangerous climb.

However, after seeing the crowds attempting to ascend the narrow precipice, using only a chain as a guide, we opted to just watch. Nevertheless, the challenging hike took us over five miles with an elevation gain of over 1,500 feet. Walters Wiggles, the 21 switchbacks that leads to the overlook, is quite a trail-building fete.  

We feel like we hit the highlights of Zion National Park but realize this area has so much more to offer in terms of hiking, mountain biking, and other fun activities. And, while we are ready to move on to our next adventure, it’s likely we’ll be back to beautiful Zion!

RV Living in the Southeast

It’s been a while since we posted a travel blog. It’s not that we aren’t traveling. No, we are certainly covering some miles and having adventures here and there, but mostly we are living in our RV while working our way as far south as we can for the winter. 

We last left you in Lexington, Kentucky where we were taking in Horse and Bourbon Country. Since then we stopped at Mammoth Cave National Park to explore the world’s longest cave. Did you know that this one cavern spans over 400 miles, and cave experts continue to find new passageways every year? It’s hard to get good photos underground, but we were there!

From cave country we moved south a few hours and spent a weekend in Nashville. We passed on visiting Broadway and all the bars, but we did catch a fun Eagles tribute band at one of Nashville’s renowned live music venues, 3rd and Lindsley.

From Nashville we headed to Gulf Shore, Alabama and one of our favorite state parks. Gulf State Park has an incredible campground, miles and miles of trails, and a beautiful white sand beach. We saw cool creatures and nice sunsets almost every day.

Unfortunately, we encountered quite a bit of rain (over 3 inches one day!) and not the greatest weather overall. That just meant we had more opportunities to visit one of our favorite bars, the Florabama.

In fact, we spent our Thanksgiving at the Florabama with hundreds of others who shared in the spirit of thanks. We met other fun people, enjoyed great live music, and partook in one of the largest potlucks we’ve ever seen! While being with family would have definitely beat it, it was a great second option!

Another adventure while in Gulf Shores was a visit to the USS Alabama Battleship. Located in Mobile Bay the large ship began her work in WWII, earning nine battle stars for meritorious service. She’s now a National Historic Landmark and provides visitors nearly unrestricted access. We had a blast exploring the bridge, the brig, and all points in between.

After two weeks at Gulf State Park we headed north again, with a stop in Montgomery to visit the Legacy Museum and Memorial. This beautiful, new facility presents the history of slavery from the international slave trade through current day mass incarceration. It was eye-opening and sobering and if you are in Montgomery and have a little time, we highly recommend it.

Next stop was Huntsville, Alabama for Steve’s latest marathon. He completed the Rocket City Marathon with an indoor finish on a cool, rainy morning and can now cross Alabama off the list of states. 

In Huntsville we visited the Space and Rocket Center featuring the Saturn 5 and a number of other huge relics of our country’s space efforts. The center has some cool artifacts and educational features, and we enjoyed our morning exploring the rockets and planetarium.

While in Huntsville we experienced swarms of lady bugs in the forest behind our camper, and now we are learning how to eradicate those suckers from an RV. When you travel in your home, the challenges never end! 

We’re now headed to the Keys for Christmas and New Years and hoping for better weather. Today, in Jupiter, Florida, where we are camped, we are bracing for up to five inches of rain and wind gusts up to 50mph tonight. We are hopeful it clears up enough on tomorrow to make our way south.

So, while the weather has not been too cooperative lately, we continue to enjoy our time in the RV, exploring new neighborhoods and basically just living. All is well! 

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

Between races in Duluth, Minnesota and Gladstone, Michigan, we stopped in Munising, Michigan to check out one of the nation’s four national lakeshores: Pictured Rocks. The national lakeshore on Lake Superior includes around 15 miles of cliffs, 100 miles of trails, and numerous waterfalls and white sand beaches along its 42 mile length.

We allowed three days to explore and did so on land and in the water. First, we drove the length of the park, from Munising to Grand Marais and stopped at several waterfalls and viewpoints.

One of the coolest stops was the log slide. In the past, loggers would use the sand slide chute to move logs down to Lake Superior where they could be easily floated to saw mills in Grand Marais. Now it’s an adventurous three minutes down and a tough climb back up. We just checked it out from the top.

The best way to really see Pictured Rocks is from the water. You can take a tour boat or kayak up to the cliffs and into the caves. Which one do you think we chose?

There are several kayak companies in Munising and we chose to go with Pictured Rocks Kayaking because they have specially designed boats that allow you to launch the kayak from the boat. This allowed us to see a portion of the lakeshore from the boat and put in exactly where the good stuff starts, meaning every bit of time in the kayak is right where you want to be. 

Our crew was awesome and shared interesting information about the area’s history, the geology, and the mythology of the area. The paddling was easy since it was a calm, clear, warm, perfect day. 

The highlight was probably paddling through the caves and seeing how the cliffs were being formed and eroded right before our eyes. We got a video of this. 

Kayaking through caves

And yes, the cliffs continue to break off and change all the time. This was displayed in one area where large rocks had sheered off the cliffs over the winter and had been moved back against the mainland by ice during a winter storm. We were told to paddle clear of this area to be safe.

Our time at Pictured Rocks was short but definitely a highly recommended stop if you are in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.