Baja’s Grey Whales

About 10,000 people each year make the pilgrimage to Guerrero Negro, Baja California Sur, Mexico to experience what is known as the “world’s largest whale nursery.” Seeing the whales was the highlight of our 15-day Fantasy RV tour, but it was only part of this grand adventure. 

We joined our group of 22 RVs in Ensenada and after one more visit to the wine country, we headed south. The day we departed Ensenada, cartel kingpin El Mencho was killed in mainland Mexico, setting off a wave of attacks centered in Puerto Vallarta and spreading across the country. While driving south we were temporarily stalled by a tomato truck that had been set on fire, creating a blockade. Here’s a photo taken from social media of the explosion.

Blockade north of Camalú

We just saw the aftermath (no photos), and that was enough to caused some concern in our group. In fact, three RVs turned back the next day. We, however, decided to continue on since the violence in Baja was centered around the border and Tijuana. Our decision to proceed southward turned out to be sound, as it was peaceful for the rest of the trip. 

Passing through Baja’s majestic desert topography, we saw wild horses and unique landscapes. Camping amidst the cardònes and cirios was like being in a western movie. 

After three days of driving we arrived in Guerrero Negro. For the next two mornings we visited Ojo de Liebre lagoon and one of the largest concentrations of grey whales on the planet. 

After feeding all spring and summer in Alaska, the entire grey whale population heads south to three Mexican lagoons to give birth and nurse their calves. While in the calm waters of the lagoon, the whales show great curiosity and playfulness toward the boats. 

We were approached by numerous 35-40 foot specimens who seemed to be just as interested in us as we were in them. They allowed us to pet them and even sneak a kiss!

One even used its nose to push our boat in circles for over a minute. And there’s nothing like getting a whale blowhole shower.

We also spent time with a mama whale who was teaching her baby to approach us. The experience was definitely one-of-a-kind!

Guerrero Negro is also the site of one of the world’s largest salt production plants and it’s the high salinity of the lagoons that makes them attractive to the whales. One afternoon Steve joined the group for a tour of the massive salt facility and was amazed by the operation.

After our time in Guerrero Negro, we traveled across the peninsula to the sleepy village of Bahia de Los Ángeles (BLA), set on the Sea of Cortez. Our beachfront campsites were the perfect setting for kayaking and beach barbecues.

Steve and his buddies went fishing and caught large, yellowfin tuna that was delicious on the Blackstone. 

Fantasy RV tours fed us extremely well, and we are now in detox mode! Fresh seafood and Mexican dishes, along with plenty of margaritas were on our menu most days.

While this was a spectacular trip, our new friends made it even more special. Jay & June and Jim & Yujing were on both of the back-to-back tours, and the six of us became a formidable team. We shared meals, hikes, happy hours, laundry trips, and plenty of laughs.

Travel is always enriching, but it’s the friends you make along the way that truly make it exceptional. We are grateful to have made four, great new friends on this Mexican adventure. 

Niagara Falls Iconic Attractions

We finally made it to one of the most famous tourist destinations in the world. Niagara Falls has been on our list and now it has a ✔️ next to it. We left Traverse City after a wonderful summer and crossed into Canada at Port Huron. From there we ventured across southern Ontario and camped at a KOA on the Canadian side of the falls. 

They say you have to see the falls from both sides, so we did. Early on our first day we crossed back into the USA and set out to explore Niagara Falls State Park, the country’s oldest state park. From the park we were able to access our top priorities: Maid of the Mist and Cave of the Winds. 

Maid of the Mist

The iconic Maid of the Mist first launched in 1846 to operate as ferry across the Niagara River for stagecoaches and carriages.

Now the all-electric vessels shuttles over 1.5 million visitors each year to the base of Horseshoe Falls. We donned the signature blue rain slicker and still got pretty damp. The mist from the falls is no joke. 

Cave of the Winds

After our experience on the water, we walked across the park and onto Goat Island. Here we found the next attraction: Cave of the Winds.

The original cave behind Bridal Veil Falls was discovered in 1834 but was destroyed in a 1954 rockfall. Now you go through a tunnel and elevator and walk on a boardwalk that takes you right up to the base of Bridal Veil Falls. 

Honestly we were not prepared for how wet you get on this attraction and the flimsy yellow slickers didn’t help much. Still, we loved climbing the wooden stairs up to the Hurricane Deck which is the closest you can get to any of Niagara’s three waterfalls, with powerful winds and water crashing around you. Our shoes were sopping when we finished but the exhilaration was worth it!

Video from the Hurricane Deck

Skylon Tower

On the Canadian side you get a direct view of the falls as opposed to a side view from the US. We opted to view the natural wonder from above.

Skylon Tower was built in 1965 and shows its age. Still, the revolving restaurant at the top provides some of the best views as well as a great deal on an early bird fixed-price dinner.

While enjoying a three course meal featuring prime rib for Steve and salmon for me, we slowly rotated roughly 52 stories above the falls. As you can see we got some great photos! We highly recommend seeing the falls from Skylon whether you have dinner (make reservations early) or just head up to the observation deck. 

There’s a ton more to do in this area including wine tasting around Niagara-on-the-Lake. But we have a few more stops to make before Steve’s next race.

Eastward bound: Poconos, West Point, and History on the Hudson

We are working our way eastward for Steve’s fall marathons. Along the way we’ve found some fun stops to entertain and educate us. This part of the country is new territory for us, so there is a lot to explore and learn. The changing leaves make it a perfect time for exploration. 

First stop was the Poconos in the northeastern portion of the Pennsylvania. When planning a roadtrip to places we’ve never been, we sometimes have to make a guess as to where to go. For this stop we decided the town of Jim Thorpe sounded good and we were not disappointed. This historic town, named after the greatest athlete of the 20th century, and referred to as the “Switzerland of America” is the gateway to the beautiful Lehigh Gorge.

We explored the town and then took our bikes on a shuttle up the gorge and rode back to town along the Delaware & Lehigh National Heritage Trail. The 25 mile downhill route along the Lehigh River was spectacular. 

While in the Poconos we visited the World’s Largest General Store…at least that’s what the sign said. Fun to wander around with Bob.

From the Poconos we traveled about 100 miles to the Hudson River Valley in New York. From our campground near Newburgh we were able to take in some fun, historic sites. First we did a tour of the U.S. Military Academy at West Point.

We learned about the founding of West Point in 1778 and about its current status at the premier training facilities for our country’s leaders. Notable West Point grads include Douglas MacArthur, George Patton, Dwight D. Eisenhower, Ulysses S. Grant to name a few. It’s a beautiful campus right on the river. 

In Poughkeepsie we took Bob on a walk across the Hudson River at the Walkway Over the Hudson State Park. The world’s longest elevated pedestrian bridge spans 1.28 miles over the river. We walked from the park in Highland, NY to Poughkeepsie and back on a beautiful afternoon. 

On our final day in the Hudson River Valley we visited a number of national park sites of historical significance in Hyde Park, NY. First we toured the Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Park, built by Frederick Vanderbilt in 1895. Opulent and stately, the mansion served as a spring and fall escape for the family and their friends who would sail up the Hudson to get to the property.

Just a mile down the road is the lifelong home of Franklin D. Roosevelt and his Presidential Library. We wandered the expansive property, admired the views of the Hudson below, paid our respects at the resting place of President Roosevelt and his influential wife, Eleanor. It was too much for us to see it all in just one day, but we walked away with a strengthened appreciation of the contribution our longest serving president had on our nation.

From the Hudson River Valley we traveled further east into Connecticut. We are here at the best time, with a chill in the air and the changing colors in the trees. But, the very best part of this stop was our day spent with our good friends Jeff and Gail. As Connecticut natives, they were generous in showing us the best of the Hartford area. First stop: Mark Twain’s house. We took a living history tour of the house where Samuel Clemens wrote his most famous works, including the Adventures of Huckleberry Finn. 

After learning about the incredible life of Mark Twain we headed to one of Connecticut’s best pizza shops: Sally’s Apizza. After a great lunch Jeff gave us a tour of his alma mater, the University of Connecticut in Storrs. The beautiful campus is topped off with its own dairy bar featuring some of the best ice cream we’ve ever had. We are so grateful for our RV lifestyle which has led us to great friends like Gail and Jeff. 

The next marathon on the fall calendar is soon upon us. Next up we’ll have a report from Rhode Island.