RV Adventures

Just a Start in the Florida Keys

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When we say we are in “the Keys” most people assume we are partying in Key West. In fact, we are over 100 miles away from the party town and have spent a busy two weeks exploring the “upper keys.” The Florida Keys are made up of 1,700 little islands beginning about 15 miles south of Miami and extending westward beyond Key West. The word “key” is derived from the Spanish “cayo.” With so many little islands, we have a lot of territory to explore! We started with Key Largo.

Sunset Celebration at Lorelei’s
A Typical Keys Sunset

Luckily, we snagged a two-week reservation at the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park campground, which made this a more affordable stay than other options in the Keys. Our next-door neighbors in the campground, Dave and Cinda, were from Arizona, and we had a lot in common. The four of us enjoyed excursions, happy hours, and dinners together, which really made our stay here even more special. 

Dave and Cinda
Happy Hour at Snook’s

The park itself is mostly underwater. We took the snorkeling excursion to the reef twice and were amazed with the clarity of the water and the health of the reef. The water temperature is about 76 degrees, so it’s possible to swim and snorkel with just a swimsuit. We have our wetsuits with us, so we used those just for a little extra comfort. Lots of colorful fish, calm blue waters, and plenty of sunshine made for two perfect afternoons, one of which we shared with Dave and Cinda.

Ready to snorkel
In action
Dave and Cinda
Refreshing!!!
Sea Nettle

The park is also known for its kayaking trails through the mangroves. We took the Botē kayaks out several times to paddle around and look for cool things in the water.

Entering a mangrove tunnel
Paddling in the mangroves

Steve also set out on a few mornings to fish from the kayak. He caught a tree and a small pinfish, but that was about it. He had better luck fishing from a nearby bridge.

Fishing near the bridge
A pinfish!

The Wild Bird Sanctuary is a small, local refuge for a variety of birds. We checked it out one afternoon while we were out poking around. There are a number of these little environmentally focused organizations through the Keys and we always try to stop and support these important organizations. 

One day we had the opportunity to travel back to the Miami International Airport to meet up with our dear friend Lucia Idarraga and her nephew Alvaro who were passing through on their way back to Colombia. There weren’t many options for breakfast in the very crowded airport terminal so we set up our own breakfast cafe curbside. It was a beautiful morning and we were thankful to spend some time with our special friends. 

Alvaro, Lucia and Steve
Enjoying breakfast at MIA

A highlight of every day here in the Keys is sunset. Many of the area bars and restaurants have a sunset celebration so we checked out as many as we could! That means we’ve got A LOT of sunset pictures! We’re only two weeks into our six week Keys tour, so you can expect a few more sunset photos coming your way!

Sunset at Bayside Grill
Sunset at Blackwater Siren
Sunset at Caribbean Club
Sunset Somewhere…
Bob enjoys HH too!
Sunset Somewhere…
Sunset at Sundowners
Sunset at Bayside Grill

Key Largo has a warm, community feel. Steve got a haircut, I got a pedicure, we went to the library, and even gave blood one day in typical Keys fashion—there were chickens!

The Big Red Bus
Waiting to give blood?

We met a number of locals along the way who were happy to recommend sunset watching locations and favorite restaurants. The Holiday Lighted Boat Parade was a fun local event we shared with our friends Dave and Cinda.

Holiday Boat Parade
Enjoying the Boat Parade
Sunset at the Boat Parade

We’ve got a lot more Keys to check out. Soon we are heading to the southernmost point in the USA. 

Vicksburg and Natchez

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There’s a mystery about this part of our country…the Great River Road, Civil War battlefields, Antebellum mansions. It’s a new world to us but the history of the area dates back to the 1700s and before.

  • The mighty Mississippi
  • Vicksburg
  • Longwood

During the Civil War, Vicksburg’s strategic location on the Mississippi River made it critical for both the Union and the Confederacy. After the 47 day siege, the Confederacy surrendered and the defeat marked a major turning point in the war.

  • Along Union lines
  • Union lines

The Vicksburg National Military Park covers over 2,500 acres and features over 1300 monuments honoring those who fought. On our first day we drove the Union Avenue portion of the park and explored the Union lines (marked by blue signs) and key strategic positions. On the next day we focused on Confederate Avenue and the highlights of the defense (marked by red signs). The National Parks Service offers an audio guide that narrates details about the battle as you drive through the large expanse. 

  • Illinois memorial
  • Even Bob enjoyed his visit to Vicksburg!
  • Illinois memorial
  • The Union and Confederacy meet – red and blue signs
  • Steve and Bob on the steps of the Illinois memorial

In the north portion of the park is the National Cemetery which holds the remains of 17,000 Union soldiers, more than any other national cemetery. 

  • Vicksburg National Cemetery
  • Vicksburg Cemetery gates

The U.S.S. Cairo Museum is also on the site and features the recovered ironclad ship that sank in the Yazoo River in 1862. The Cairo (pronounced KAY-row, unlike Cairo in Egypt) was found in 1952 and was salvaged and restored, creating an interesting display. The adjacent museum includes many artifacts that were recovered from the ship, indicating what life was like for the soldiers of the time.

  • USS Cairo
  • Cairo – Civil War-era ironclad
  • Up close with the USS Cairo

Besides the military park, we checked out historic Vicksburg and soaked in the history. One mandatory stop in Vicksburg is Solly’s Hot Tamales. Tamales in these parts are not like the tamales we are used to in Arizona. These tasty little things are filled with a mix of ground beef and meal and are served in portions of three or six. We easily polished off six plus some fries. This isn’t the kind of meal we eat regularly…but boy was it good!

  • Tiny but tasty tamales
  • Enjoying a coffee break in Vicksburg
  • Vicksburg along the Mississippi River

From Vicksburg we traveled about 70 miles south along the Mississippi River to Natchez. Another city with a deep history, Natchez was mostly spared destruction during the Civil War and has more Antebellum homes, over 300, than any other city in the south. We enjoyed our stay at an RV park right along the river, visiting a historic home, and trying out a few of the area’s great restaurants and bars. 

  • Riverview RV Park, Vidalia, LA
  • Brunch at The Kitchen
  • Brisket and Fried Mac and Cheese at The Kitchen
  • Enjoying a beer at The Under the Hill Saloon

We took a tour of the historic Longwood Mansion, which was built in 1860. The construction of the eight-sided mansion was interrupted by the Civil War and the structure was never completed, yet generations of the Nutt family lived in the first floor until the 1960s. From the unfinished second floor you can see up six levels to the unfinished cupola. 

  • Longwood Dining Room with a “shoo fly”
  • Unfinished 2nd floor of Longwood
  • Looking up the cupola at Longwood
  • Longwood
  • Longwood as seen from the slave cabins
  • Longwood
  • Like he owns the place!

Natchez is a pretty city, situated alongside the Mississippi River. We enjoyed strolling around the town, reading interpretive signs about the town’s rich history.

  • Mississippi River
  • Strolling Natchez
  • Mississippi River
  • Natchez is ready for the holidays
  • Great walking trails in Natchez
  • Bob likes Natchez too!

On our way to the Gulf Coast we spent one night at a Harvest Host. This time we stopped in Stringer, Mississippi and A-Stroka-Genus Alpaca Farm. The small family farm has 35 alpacas, one llama, four Great White Pyrenees dogs, 30+ chickens, ducks, guinea hens, and a pair of very loud miniature donkeys.

  • Feeding the babies
  • Great White Pyrenees
  • Am I cute, or what?
  • What are you looking at?
  • Do you have something for me?
  • No, it’s not a toupee!
  • Steve, the alpaca whisperer

Mary Ann gave us a tour of the farm and allowed us to feed the animals. She then demonstrated how she spins the alpaca wool into the skeins of yarn she sells in the small, onsite store. Bob got a new alpaca hide toy out of the deal too! As always, Harvest Host delivered a great experience. 

  • Mary Ann spinning the alpaca wool
  • Bob loves his new alpaca toy

We’re on to the beach next!

Hot Springs National Park

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As we work our way south towards the Gulf Coast we wanted to cross one more National Park off the list. Hot Springs National Park (HSNP) was along the way and it’s easy to do in a day.

From the beginning, the waters drew those with disabling conditions seeking to ease their pain in the thermal waters. Over time settlers built cabins and lured travelers to the famed springs.  In 1876, the US Supreme Court ruled against private land claims and made the thermal waters available to all. Once the federal government began regulating private bathhouses the building began. By the 1900s, Hot Springs was among the most visited health and wellness resorts in the country. Promoted as a place “where crutches are thrown away,” the area attracted actors, athletes, politicians, and the rich and famous. Notable patients included Will Rogers, Andrew Carnegie, Herbert Hoover, Helen Keller, and Jack Dempsey.

Today only two of the original bathhouses still operate. Others have been transformed for other purposes including the National Park Visitor Center, a cultural center, and a brewery.

We lucked out by getting a full hookup campsite at the park’s Gulpha Gorge Campground. We don’t often drive somewhere without a reservation, but when we arrived, there were several spots available, and we grabbed one. Those who arrived later in the day were not so lucky.

Just behind the campground runs Gulpha Creek, and the park’s 26 hiking trails link together just across the creek. We set out for a nice hike to explore the Hot Springs Mountains, following the Oertel Trail across the mountain and into the historic town of Hot Springs.

The trails were originally established as part of the park’s exercise program and are color-coded based on difficulty. The Grand Promenade runs directly behind Bathhouse Row and served as the most easily accessible of the fitness trails, often prescribed as part of a visit. Our four and a half mile walk through the forest and along the Promenade was a great way to start the day.

The National Park Visitor Center is located in the Fordyce Bathhouse. The 1915 structure has been restored to its original, elegant state. On three floors you can see treatment rooms, the gymnasium, and the parlors that served as “America’s First Resort.” Though the waters held no magical cure, the treatments offered some relief for patients who were suffering and in desperate need of help.

The facilities in Hot Springs at one time rivaled similar bathhouses in Europe. At the Fordyce Bathhouse the men’s bath hall features a large domed skylight containing 8000 pieces of glass arranged to represent Neptune’s daughter, mermaids, dolphins, and fish in swirling water.

In the Hubbard Tub Room non-ambulatory patients were lowered into the tub by the overhead wooden stretcher, allowing for therapies designed to treat polio, arthritis, and paralysis. 

The gymnasium was state of the art for the time and included dumbbells, traveling rings, and parallel bars. These facilities were popular with major league baseball players at the time, including Babe Ruth.

The historic area of Hot Springs is a typical tourist area with souvenir shops, restaurants, and bars. There was a gangster presence here during prohibition, and some of that history is reflected in the area.

We strolled the avenue, browsed a bit, but didn’t indulge in anything but a coffee. While it’s possible to receive spa treatments in two of the historic bathhouses, you must book ahead and we passed on that opportunity.

Hot Springs National Park isn’t one you go out of your way to see and you certainly don’t need days to explore. It is, however, an interesting glimpse into a part of American history.