RV Adventures

Lexington: For the Love of Horses and Bourbon

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If you love horses, Lexington is your place. If you love bourbon, Lexington is your place. Heck, if you don’t like either but love beautiful countryside and a nice urban feel, Lexington is your place. We’ve spent eight nights here and it wasn’t enough!

Lexington Landscapes
Lexington Horses
Lexington Bourbon

First let’s talk horses! Lexington is considered the “horse capital of the world,” with the most well-known farms and horses on the planet. We stayed at the Kentucky Horse Park Campground, which is connected to the Kentucky Horse Park, home to the International Museum of the Horse and a massive show facility.

 

The legendary Lexington
Our home away from home at Kentucky Horse Park
One of many beautiful pieces of art at Kentucky Horse Park

I was lucky enough to grow up around Arabian horses and often visited the barns of Lasma Arabians. *Bask++ was the king of the barn and to this day one of the most legendary Arabian stallions ever. So, imagine my surprise when we entered the museum to find a life-sized bronze of *Bask++ dominating the lobby!

My face when I first see the sculpture!
*Bask++’s final resting place
Steve entering the Arabian Horse gallery in the museum

Later we walked through the Al-Marah Arabian Horse Gallery and on the grounds found *Bask++’s grave. It may seem unremarkable to someone who doesn’t know Arabians, but for me it was like arriving to Mecca. 

Also at the Kentucky Horse Park we met several of the resident horses including Connor, a massive Belgian and Manny, a rare American Cream Draft. During the season there are over 1,000 horses of 100’s of breeds on the grounds. Unfortunately we arrived at the start of the winter season and only about 100 horses were in residence to meet.

Connor, a very big Belgian
Manny, an American Cream Draft

The other cool thing about staying at the Kentucky Horse Park Campground was proximity to the show grounds. While Steve spent Saturday afternoon watching his beloved Nebraska Cornhuskers on TV, I wandered the grounds of the US Dressage Finals and caught some great horsemanship.

Two rings going at once
Freestyle Dressage

In Lexington, horse racing is based at Keeneland. While not as well known as Churchill Downs, the track has a legacy as the place to train and race if you are a Derby contender. We toured Keeneland on the second day of the fall breeding stock sale.

Welcome to Keeneland
Watching the morning workouts
Working hard
Original LeRoy Neiman
Beautiful time of year at the track

A staple on the industry’s calendar, the breeding stock sale brings the Thoroughbred world together under one roof to buy and sell the future of the sport. Over 3,500 horses are sold over a seven day period, with the most expensive horses selling earliest. On day one, two mares sold for $6 million each. Being there on day two meant we got to see some of the high dollar mares auctioned to those who hope to cash in soon. Check out the prices in the photos below. 

While Keeneland is the first stop for horse lovers who visit Lexington, number two on the list has to be Claiborne Farms, the industry-leading farm that was home to Secretariat. During our tour of the stallion barns we met two stallions up close. War of Will won the 2019 Preakness and earned almost $1.9 million while he was racing. His stud fee is now $25,000.  

War of Will
War of Will

We also met War of Will’s sire, the acclaimed War Front. As one of the top producing Thoroughbred stallions, his stud fee is $100,000, and he has been syndicated with a current value of $83 million. I fed him a candy and got a handful of drool that I wished I could have bottled! He also gives really good hugs!

Feeding War Front a peppermint
Getting a little tongue
Expensive spit!

Finally, a trip to Claiborne Farms always takes you past the personal pasture of Secretariat and to his final resting place. Secretariat, commonly known as Big Red, won the triple crown in 1973, setting and still holding the fastest time record in all three races. He is considered by many to be the greatest race horse of all time. Seeing his grave and hearing about the impact he had on so many choked me up, to say the least.

Secretariat’s paddock
Secretariat’s stall
Secretariat’s resting place

Claiborne is set just outside of Paris, KY, and the town was dedicating the Secretariat Park when we were there. Unfortunately we didn’t get to see the sculpture, but the park was stunning. We also had the opportunity to have our photo taken with Big Red.

Before the unveiling
Artwork at Secretariat Park
Only wish this was the real thing!

Okay, enough about horses…how about some bourbon? Our multi-week exploration of Kentucky’s Bourbon Trail continued. In all, between our time in Bardstown, Louisville, and Lexington, we visited 15 distilleries. Some were big, name-brand operations and others were small craft distilleries where we met with the master distiller. Steve still doesn’t have a favorite…he says his favorite is the one in his hand! In case you’re curious, here’s the list of distilleries we visited while in Kentucky:

  • Richter’s
  • Evan Williams
  • Bulleit
  • Heaven Hill
  • Bardstown Boubon Co.
  • Maker’s Mark
  • Woodford Reserve
  • Town Branch
  • Jeptha Creed
  • Willett
  • Limestone Branch
  • James E. Pepper
  • Hartfield & Co,
  • Buffalo Trace
  • Barrel House

Every distillery was unique, as was its process and final product. 

At Jeptha Creed
Jeptha Creed tasting
Town Branch
Woodford Reserve
Woodford Reserve
Food and spirits pairing at Woodford Reserve

One interesting experience was at Buffalo Trace. We arrived at 11 a.m. on Sunday to a huge crowd waiting to get in. We figured it was just a popular place. Later we learned that they have a shortage of their specialty bourbons and when one is released, locals come to buy their allotment. The day we arrived, Eagle Rare, a bourbon aged for 10 years was available. Since we waited for 45 minutes to get through the doors, we figured we better buy a bottle in addition to our walk around the property and our tasting.

What’s with the crowd at Buffalo Trace?
The bottle they were all waiting for
Buffalo Trace grounds
Barrel crossing at Buffalo Trace
Free tastings!

At Bulleit we skipped the tour and joined in a Bourbon Brain trivia contest. I guess we’ve now been on enough tours to know the ins and outs of bourbon because we won!!! Hats, mugs, and a cocktail made for a fun afternoon at Bulleit!

Why not play?
Cool hats to the winners
And cups!

We’re beginning our travels southward, with some fun stops ahead before we reach the beach. We’ll keep you posted!

Childhood Memories Ignited in Louisville

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Evoking childhood memories made our time in Louisville, Kentucky even more special than expected. We came for a marathon, but left with lots of warm feels. 

Louisville Slugger factory and museum
Churchill Downs

You might not know that Steve’s dream job is to be the shortstop for the Kansas City Royals. If his dream comes true he will no doubt hit with a Louisville Slugger. The Louisville Slugger factory and museum introduced us to the process used to make the legendary bats that major leaguers since Honus Wagner have used. We learned how the wood is sourced and crafted into unique versions for big leaguers and sandlot players alike. “Meeting” baseball’s historical figures including Babe Ruth and Jackie Robinson reinforced just how influential Louisville Sluggers have been to America’s national pastime.

Billets crafted into bats
Warming up to Babe Ruth
Ready for finishing
Soon to be Louisville Sluggers
Steve meets Jackie Robinson

Did you know big league hitters create a unique template for a bat that works best for them and then order that bat over and over? There are over 3,000 templates in the bat vault from which more unique bats can be designed. Holding some of the most famous major leaguers’ game-used bats left us feeling like maybe the dream is possible. For Steve, this visit was filled with nostalgia.

Hank Aaron’s bat
Rod Carew’s bat
B390 – Template used to make George Brett’s bats
Ken Griffey Jr.’s bat
Steve and the big bat

My childhood revolved around horses. The first Sunday in May was always spent watching the Kentucky Derby with Dad. He would talk about why certain horses looked stronger than others and why the Derby was such an important race, the first in the Triple Crown. Every year we picked our favorites and cheered them on through the television screen. Visiting Churchill Downs was nostalgic for me. 

The Museum is the gateway to Derby history
Loved this horse

We took the “Go Baby Go” tour which offered the most in depth look at Churchill Downs and its history. With our guide and just one other couple, we had full access to the barns, the backstretch, and all the areas in between the legendary twin spires. In the backstretch we watched morning workouts around the one mile track. In the barns we met the lead ponies and fed them peppermints. Our visit to the barns of some of the most famous trainers in Derby history reminded me of being in barns as a kid. The sights and smells brought it all back! 

Meeting the lead ponies
Lead pony barn
Making friends with candy
D. Wayne Lukas, four time derby winner
Backstretch at morning workout
Cooling down
View of the twin spires from the backstretch
Making more friends
Lead pony and a beauty
Twin spires from the infield
Steve at the Derby starting gate

After exploring the backstretch, we returned to the grandstands where we toured many of the spectator areas, including the terraces next to the famed twin spires. Television coverage of the Run for the Roses often features shots of celebrities in these coveted seats. The views of the track from the elevated terraces are certainly spectacular.

Twin spires
On the terraces at the spires
Finish line
View from the grandstand
Bugler’s tower

There are many luxury seating options at Churchill Downs. Many are filled with high rollers on Derby day. One coveted area is Millionaires Row. On Derby day seating in this all-inclusive area starts at around $5,300 per person. Our tour included lunch in Millionaires Row, along with a great view of the day’s racing. Our guide even helped us place our bets. We weren’t big winners, but it was a day that brought back so many sweet memories and one I’ll never forget. 

Millionaires Row
Can’t do the Derby without a fascinator
Meeting Churchill Charlie
View from the Infield. What a day!!

In between all the childhood reflections, we put our bikes on the trails near the RV park. We camped at North Louisville Campground, just blocks from the Ohio River. Quick, “get your blood flowing” rides were a nice way to lead up to the marathon and provided some pretty cool views over the river to the Louisville skyline. For those of you into geography, you’ll know that the campground and trails were actually in Indiana.

Liberty Trail
Biking near the Falls of the Ohio
Along the Ohio River

While in Louisville, Steve completed a marathon in his 32nd state. With an early start, just as the sun was rising, Steve took off for his 26.2 miles through the Kentucky hills. An hour later I started the 6.2 mile (10K) race. We both finished in respectable times and celebrated at the finish line with a beer and a piece of Derby pie (pecan pie with chocolate). The Louisville Marathon was a success!

A dark, cold start to the day
In line, ready to run
And he’s off!
Another medal!
Two finishers!
Celebratory beer

While our time in Louisville is concluding, our time in Kentucky continues with more bourbon and horses. We’ll provide a full report once we’ve left the state!

Bardstown, Kentucky: Let the Bourbon Trail Begin!

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We’ve made the long trip from the Balloon Fiesta in Albuquerque to the heart of Bourbon Country in Kentucky. Our exploration of all things bourbon has just begun here in Bardstown, and we’ve got quite a few stops ahead.

First, a few things to catch up on. On our way to Kentucky we made stops in Kansas City and Omaha to see family and catch one more Cornhusker game in Lincoln. Our days were filled with chilly soccer games, basketball games, birthday celebrations, shopping, a tailgate, and a fun day with the Iowa cousins surrounded by beautiful fall colors. Click the arrows on the photo below to scroll through the highlights.

Indianapolis lured us in for just a few days. Steve ran a marathon in his 31st state and I cranked out another 5K. 

And then we arrived in Kentucky! Our first stop was at My Old Kentucky Home State Park where we were camped in the center of the Bourbon City, Bardstown!  Heaven Hill was our first exposure to how Kentucky Bourbon is made. This sprawling facility has a great museum that features the history of bourbon.

The next morning we were up early to tour Willett where we were able to taste the mash at various stages before it begins the distilling process. Our awesome tour guide took us through the entire distilling process, offering tastes along the way. What a great way to take a tour! From there we did some shopping, checked out the fun little town of Bardstown, and then hunkered down for some cold weather overnight.

Thankfully our Grand Design Solitude is keeping us and the dogs toasty warm so that we sleep well and are up early for full days of touring.

Hadorns Bakery in downtown Bardstown is considered a must-stop. While in line at this popular bake shop, we met a very friendly man who offered to buy our yum yums (chocolate, glazed donut twists). As we chatted he shared that he spent much of September in the ICU and is now awaiting a new heart. He showed us all of his wires and ports. It was a touching moment to come across such a positive and generous soul who is spreading joy and love while himself struggling.

Our encounter at the bakery fueled us for another full day of touring. First stop was Kentucky Cooperage where we weren’t allowed to take photos inside the factory, but wow! This is where the majority of the world’s bourbon barrels are made, and we watched the craftsmen choose the white oak staves, create the barrel, char the barrel to the distillery’s specifications, and then finish the barrel with bands. The virgin barrels are used to make bourbon and then are often sent to Scotland to make scotch or to other manufacturers to make bourbon-infused coffee, rum, syrup, or other products.  This tour is not to be missed!

After a stop at Limestone Branch Distillery for a quick tasting, we arrived at the beautiful property of Makers Mark. Makers Mark is the world’s oldest operating bourbon distillery and showcases its history and quality in a fun tour and tasting. We saw the stills, the rickhouses, the print shop, and lots of beautiful Chihuly glass art which adorns even the warehouses where the bourbon is aged. After the tasting we bought a bottle of Makers Mark 46, a specially aged version of the classic bourbon. Dipping the bottle in the hallmark red wax was a bonus!

We are learning about the rules of bourbon. It must be aged in a new, charred oak barrel and contain 51% corn. It cannot be distilled above 160 proof and must enter the barrel at no more than 125 proof. Bourbon bottles cannot be filled below 80 proof, with no color or flavoring added. Our goal is to become experts and we still have a lot of learning to do!