An Introduction to Mendoza

Mendoza, Argentina

Our buddy Julio picked us up before 7 and got us to the domestic airport in Buenos Aires with plenty of time to spare. Buenos Aires has two airports and we’ll be using both on this trip. We arrived to the international airport last Sunday which is north of the city. All domestic flights leave from another airport that’s right near the city center. When we begin our trek home we’ll fly back to the domestic airport and have to take a shuttle to the international airport to catch our flight back to the USA. Sounds a bit complicated but we don’t have to worry about that for more than a week.

Upon on our arrival in Mendoza, on the Argentine national airline, we were met by our guide Aida and driver Walter. They took us on a tour of the city of Mendoza, including a look at the civic center which is home to the oldest Andean flag, representing the region’s relationship with neighboring Chile and Peru.

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Guy who guards the Andean flag

While in town we stopped to change dollars to pesos at an official cambio. The posted rate was 6:1 but because we are tourists they gave us 9:1. Our guide explained that the “blue” market rate is a relatively new thing, within the last year or so. The Argentine economy is really struggling and the government is trying to control the peso. The blue markets are what happens when the government places restrictions on trade. Everyone we’ve talked to agrees that it’s a mess, but it’s working in our favor at this point. Good time to be a tourist in Argentina.

After a final stops to see the city from the highest point we were driven about 25 minutes south to our home for the next three nights, Club Tapiz. This beautiful 11 room lodge is situated on a vineyard and they have a first class restaurant on site that features food grown on the property.

Our lunch was the best food we’ve had so far and that was just a sandwich. The 6 course dinner menu looks spectacular and it’s on our schedule for this evening.

We we wandered the grounds for awhile and met various dogs who live on the property including a big mama dog and her seven puppies! They are adorable and satisfy our need for dog contact, at least for the time being. Unfortunately, we had to share the puppies with our new friend, Laura, who is eight years old and visiting with her family from Finland.

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Marnie, Laura, and Puppies

Laura doesn’t speak English (or Spanish for that matter) but we both understood the language of puppies.

After a stroll through the grounds, admiring the herb garden and robust vines we settled in for a rest before the evening festivities.

Our evening began with the daily Tapiz wine tasting. Seated outside near the vines, with an international group of people, we tasted two of the wines of Tapiz. It’s really casual and relaxed and we met cool people from New Zealand, Ireland, UK, the Netherlands, and more. We were the only Americans in the group.

Following the tasting, most of the group went to the dining room for dinner. We joined them and opted for the 6 course meal, plus a bottle of Tapiz Pinot Noir. Photos of the creative menu and the dishes we enjoyed are attached. For less than $100 we had one of the most amazing meals ever. If we continue like this, they’ll have to roll us home. Luckily, we have to come home. Otherwise we might be in trouble.

Tomorrow we have a cooking class on the schedule, so stay tuned! Love to all!

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City Day

Buenos Aires, Argentina


Every trip we take includes a trudge, a long walk that seems to go on forever. We’ve trudged all over the world. Today we trudged through Buenos Aires and it was a perfect day for it. Being Christmas, the city was dead. No traffic, no crowds, and a lot of closed stores made for easy exploration of the city’s neighborhoods and parks. Our new Fitbits said we did around nine miles of walking.

We we stopped for pizza in Recoleta and then strolled by the botanical gardens and the zoo.

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Restaurant in Recoleta

As the afternoon wore on, more people began to emerge. We finally pooped out at about 4:00 and grabbed a taxi back to the hotel.

It’s very warm here. We saw a sign that said 35 degrees Celsius, which equates to about 95 degrees Fahrenheit and that was at 8:00 pm.

The weather reports said it was over 100 degrees at mid day. That’s no big deal for us, coming from Arizona, but the Porteños are complaining.

Tomorrow we catch an early flight to Mendoza and begin our education of Argentine wines.

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Christmas Eve in Uruguay

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

Like most Porteños, we fled the city for the holiday. Real Porteños go to the beach, which is about a five hour drive. We just took a one hour boat ride across the Rio de la Plata to the beautiful town of Colonia de Sacramento, Uruguay. It was a lovely place to spend a day.

To to get here we took the modern and fast Buquebus ferry. Comfy seats, wifi, and television made the trip painless. Upon arrival we were greeted by our guide Fabian and our driver Julio. Yes, we’ve had two drivers, both named Julio. Immediately we took a tour of this small town of 25,000 people. Colonia was originally settled by the Portuguese and was the site of many battles between the Portuguese and Spanish. Even the English gave it a shot.

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Colonia

Today, the city is a UNESCO Heritage Site, which means the buildings and structures are preserved. Fabian showed us how you could tell the difference between streets made by the Portuguese and those made by the Spanish (Spanish road drain on the sides, Portuguese down the center). We visited the old bullring that has not been used since the Uruguayans outlawed bull fighting in the early 1900s.

After Fabian finished our tour, we set out to explore on our own. There wasn’t much more to see but we stumbled upon Los Farolitos, the little sandwich shack on the main road. Los Farolitos is known for its chivito, a huge sandwich with a thin slice of beef, ham, cheese, fried egg, bacon, and a bunch of other things that make it yummy.

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Chivito

We enjoyed watching the town’s people prepare for Christmas while eating our chivito and sharing a beer.

It’s really warm here, like a summer day in Arizona. So, after our lunch we took to our air conditioned room at the Hotel Plaza Mayor. The hotel is right off the main square and has a beautiful garden courtyard. Steve went out on his own for a haircut and a run while I read and napped. We needed to save up a bit for the big Christmas Eve festivities.

Tonight we had dinner at Pulperia de los Faroles, which sits on the main square in Colonia. All of the tables were set up outside, lit with candlelight. We shared dinner with locals and tourists, enjoying the Uruguayan wine tannat. It was yummy. The festivities peaked at midnight with fireworks and champagne. In fact the fireworks went on throughout the neighborhoods for several hours.

We’ve seen a lot of stray dogs. They are fat and happy, as they are known as community dogs, and people take care of them. The numerous dogs roaming throughout the dinner area were sure satisfied. I tried to give a potato to one and he wasn’t interested. When our Argentine friend at the next table offered chicken, the dog scarfed it down.

Back to Buenos Aires for more city exploration tomorrow.

Merry Christmas to our friends and family!

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