Activities

Crater Lake National Park

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Crater Lake was formed over 7,500 years ago when a large eruption caused Mount Mazama to collapse and then fill with rain and snowmelt. This was our 20th National Park visit.IMG_8470We took a day to explore the highlights of Crater Lake National Park and probably could have spent more time if the Visitors Centers and other amenities had not been closed due to COVID-19. The nice thing about visiting at this time is that the crowds are thin and it’s easy to get in and out of what would otherwise be crowded attractions. At some times we were the only people at the lookouts.
IMG_9921We entered the park from the north where we are staying for a few days.  The Lake Lemolo/Crater Lake North KOA has been a great base from which to explore the area. We are about 13 miles north of the National Park and right on the shores of a nice little reservoir in the middle of the Cascades.IMG_9929To explore the National Park we followed the advice of Michael Joseph Oswald who wrote the book Your Guide to the National Parks and drove the Crater Lake Rim Road in a clockwise direction. This gave us the opportunity to easily pull off to the right to see many views of the beautiful lake.

Crater Lake is America’s deepest lake at 1,943 feet. At one point the mountain that created it stood at over 12,000 feet, but it collapsed after a major eruption and created the crater that became the lake. And, yes, in mid-July there is still a bit of snow along the rim.

Why is it so blue? It’s not because of its depth or mineral content. Instead, it’s because blue wavelengths are reflected back instead of being absorbed by the depths of the lake. Sunlight is able to penetrate deeply into the water and the lake’s magnificent, intense blues are due to its great depth and clarity.IMG_9864.JPGWe drove the 33 mile rim trail and stopped at all the highlights. There are waterfalls, overlooks and sweeping views. IMG_8486.JPGOne side road took us to the Pinnacles, unique formations of pumice spires, created by erosion along a steep-sided canyon. Some of the cones are especially tall, tapering to a sharp point. Super cool. IMG_9891We also did a short hike, the Castle Crest Wildflower Trail, which featured the annual display of wildflowers that inhabit the area. It was only a half-mile trail, which was fine with us injured travelers.

We are picnic-lunching every day and it’s really fun to pack our food (Lentil Ceviche on the menu today) and find the perfect place to dine.  Today we found a spot right on the rim where we set out our ground cover and enjoyed the views. Steve decided it was also a good place for a photo shoot.

There’s a lot more to explore at Crater Lake had we been up to hiking and/or biking at our usual pace. Considering Steve’s broken collarbone and my ailing foot, we took it easy and appreciated the views. We did spend a little time on the trails around the campground.

Steve is back to hiking and running slowly and I’m back on the bike a bit. Nothing crazy, but we are itching to get back to normal.

 

 

The Oregon Coast: Brookings to Lincoln City with Just One Broken Bone

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We made it to Oregon on July 1 and embarked on an incredible journey northward.

We knew the Oregon Coast was beautiful but we had only explored the more northern portion in the past.  In previous trips we’d visited from Newport to Astoria. This time we intended to get to know the southern portion. 

Just across the California/Oregon border, the vibe changes pretty quickly. One thing we noticed right away is that gas is much cheaper in Oregon and they pump it for you. We also appreciated the state parks that dot the coast…one after another. The entire coast is basically a big state park. We stopped at the first one, Harris Beach State Park, in the little town of Brookings.

We were here just one night but quickly decided we could have stayed much longer. Private sites, access to the beach, and right off Highway 101, this park is a gem.IMG_9552

We then moved up to Coos Bay and settled in at the trendy Bayside Landing. This RV park also has a fleet of Airstream trailers you can rent, along with modernistic cabins. Bocce ball courts, an indoor pool, and a gym added to the luxury. Because of COVID we didn’t really use any of the amenities but the setting was pretty cool. We spent the 4th of July here and the area fireworks were pretty great.

During our time in the area we explored the coastal towns of Reedsport and the nearby Dean Creek Elk viewing area.

We also caught a cool event in Bandon called Circles in the Sand. A small group of volunteers draw elaborate labyrinths during low tide. The designs only last until the next tide washes it away. We just observed the designs and people walking the paths from the cliffside above, as I was still transitioning out of my boot and didn’t want to push it.

The afternoon of the fourth we stopped at the Whiskey Run Mountain Bike area so Steve could spend a little time on the bike.  While I waited at the trailhead with the dogs, he took a spin on the trails. IMG_9611I knew immediately when he returned about an hour later that he’d taken a fall. To be exact, it was an “endo” over the handlebars. A sagging shoulder and arm that couldn’t be lifted were the telltale signs of a broken collarbone. To the hospital we went.

After three hours in the ER and some X-rays, our diagnosis was confirmed. He was given a sling and some pain meds and told to see an orthopedic doctor in Eugene. And then he drove back to the campground. What a trooper!

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The next morning we headed north to Florence and our first Thousand Trails campground. When we bought our first trailer last year we were given a zone membership to Thousand Trails network of campgrounds. The membership basically gives us free campsites at their campgrounds throughout the Pacific Northwest. We plan to stay at nine or ten of these during this trip.  After one day of lying low and resting up, we were both ready to head back out and continue our explorations. We headed north to some of the most beautiful coastline we’ve ever seen.

First stop, the Darlingtonia Wayside, a roadside stop that features these cobra-like plants that eat insects. It was a quick stop, but really cool.

Next up was the Sea Lion Caves, a commercial attraction that has been a feature on the Oregon coast since the 1930s. We took an elevator down 300 feet into a seaside cave that houses over 150 Stellar Sea Lions.

The cave, one of the largest in the world, was originally discovered in 1880 by a sea captain and is the only known cave and rookery for wild sea lions on the American mainland.

Just north of the Sea Lion Caves is Heceta Head Lighthouse and Cape Perpetua Scenic Area. Sweeping views, rugged coastline, and Spruce forests make this area breathtaking and memorable. We were able to fit in a few short hikes, even with Steve’s arm in a sling and with my limp. We’ll let the photos speak for themselves.

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Our final stop on the coast was another Thousand Trails campground near the town of Newport. This stop gave us easy access to more of the incredible Oregon coastline. At Thousand Trails Whaler’s Rest we could walk or ride bikes to the beach in about three minutes, so we took advantage of that.

We took day trips north to Depoe Bay and Lincoln City and saw whales spouting right off the beach every day. We also made the Rogue Brewery, which is based in Newport, a frequent stop and each found new favorite beers.

IMG_9803Leaving the coast was hard but our adventures now continue inland, first with a stop to see the doctor in Eugene and then on to the mountains.  You can bet there’s more to come!

From the Redwood Forest to the …

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The California Redwoods have inspired poems, songs, and many dreams.  This was one National Park we just had to check out. Warning: Be prepared for a lot of pictures of trees!

After leaving Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks on the Western slope of the Sierra Nevada range, we drove north towards the Bay Area. We spent one night at a nice park in Lodi and another night at the KOA in Petaluma on our way to the most northwestern corner of the state. While the Redwoods were our destination, the journey through California’s wine country was very much worth it.IMG_8184

In Petaluma we enjoyed what Steve considers some of the best IPA in the world: Lagunitas Brewing Company. Here Bob and Mia could join us in the outside restaurant which was amply spaced to accommodate social distancing.

While in the area we also took a 30 minute drive to the coast for our first view of the Pacific on this trip. Bodega Bay is a beautiful hamlet on the coast with a nice harbor and sweeping views.  We were only there for a short while to take in the views.

Our first peek of the redwoods was on the Avenue of the Giants, part of Humboldt Redwoods State Park, a 32-mile diversion from Highway 101. While technically not part of Redwoods National Park, this stretch of road gave us a glimpse of what was to come.

We spent one night at the funky Emerald Forest Cabins and Campground in Trinidad. Trinidad is a beautiful little seaside city but we only stayed long enough to check out the town and for Steve to have a Cuban cigar beside the fire.

The next morning we drove to our home for the next three nights, the Klamath River RV Park.  This is probably the best place we’ve stayed so far in terms of space between vehicles and overall setting. We were right on the Klamath River and just a few miles upstream from where the river meets the ocean.

Redwoods National Park wasn’t established until 1968. Even then it was a surrounded by several state parks.  Today, the National Park and three State parks are jointly managed and share the goal of preserving and protecting this incredible natural wonder.

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We began our exploration in Lady Bird Johnson Grove, the site of the dedication of the National Park in 1968. The easy 1.6 mile loop trail through old growth forest gave us a great introduction to the uniqueness of this forest. With my boot, I was able to comfortably make it all around the loop.

From there we entered Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park and explored Fern Canyon.


This little hike was a little less than a mile but the planks and occasional logs made it a bit challenging for a booted hiker.  Nevertheless, we soaked in the verdant green fern covered walls, site of the film Jurassic Park 2. You could almost imagine the dinosaurs coming down from above.

The next day we headed north to Jedidiah Smith Redwoods State Park, north of Crescent City. Today’s short hike was to Stout Grove and Steve did this one on his own while I waited with the dogs in the parking lot.

It seems I may have overdone it just a little with over 4 miles of hiking yesterday. A little ice and elevation and it’s all good.

This area of the Redwoods protects 10,000 acres of primeval redwood groves and was a feast for the eyes.  We drove a back road with trees so close to the road that our Ford F250 barely fit.

Around us were 2000 year old California redwoods, ferns, and a lush undergrowth of rhododendrons and azaleas. IMG_6186One of my goals for 2020 is to say, “Wow” at least once a day.  Today we said enough “Wows” for the entire year!

Of course we are still traveling in the age of COVID-19 and the signs are everywhere. For the most part people are wearing masks and keeping their distance. But still, we are warned of COVID and other things (including attacking elk)  everywhere we go. Yes, we are being very careful.

At least once a day Steve is running or biking. In Klamath he took the bike out for a 16 mile ride along the coast. I really wanted to go but he brings me photos.

Here are a few things we’ve learned during our time in Sequoia and then Redwood National Parks:

  • Coast Redwoods and the Giant Sequoia are in the same family but are different in many ways.
  • Giant Sequoia are found on the Western slopes of the Sierra Nevada. Coast Redwoods are in northern California along the coast.
  • Coast Redwoods grow a little taller than the Giant Sequoia (279 ft vs. 314 ft)
  • Giant Sequoias are larger by volume than the Coast Redwoods, with larger bases and diameters.
  • Giant Sequoias have a cone the size of a chicken egg and it can stay on the tree for two decades. The Coast Redwood has a cone like a large olive that is shed after 1 or 2 years.

We give the win to the larger Giant Sequoias but the Coast Redwoods were certainly impressive! If you’ve seen them both, we’d love to hear which species you prefer. Here are a few more photos of this amazing part of the USA.  Happy Independence Day!

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