Happy New Year from the Florida Keys

Happy New Year! We’ve been continuing to bask in the warmth of the southern Florida winter weather. Here in the Keys we’ve enjoyed temperatures in the 70s and 80s while thinking about our friends and family in the Midwest and in Prescott who are enduring typical winter weather.

We know we are so lucky to be here, especially since finding an RV site is so difficult in the Keys. We had to work to piece together our reservations this time of year. Thus, we’ve jumped around a few times over the last few weeks.

We were able to book four nights at the newest KOA around. The Sugarloaf Key/Key West KOA was severely damaged in Hurricane Irma in 2017 and has been under renovation ever since. The newly opened, completely reconstructed campground features a beautiful pool, a pub, full service marina, and all new facilities.

We kayaked right from the resort, and Steve got in some good fishing in the channel next to camp. We also took advantage of the easy-to-access Overseas Heritage Trail to get in some good runs and bike rides along the water. The dogs enjoyed the sunshine too!

New Years Eve took us to nearby Mangrove Mama’s for a drink and then back to the KOA to enjoy a local band. As usual, we didn’t make it to midnight but it was still a fun evening with lots of festivities to enjoy.

After our time at the KOA we drove about 20 minutes north along the Overseas Highway to one of Florida’s premier state parks. Getting a campsite at Bahia Honda is like winning the lottery and we scored four nights. With some of the few beaches in the Keys and breathtaking views, this is the kind of place you never want to leave. 

A highlight of the park is the broken bridge, a remnant of the park’s beginnings when Henry Flagler’s railway arrived on the key in 1908 en route to Key West. The 1935 Labor Day Hurricane swept a train off the tracks, destroyed miles of rail lines, and seriously damaged the bridge. The railroad never ran again. The bridge found new life when they laid a concrete slab on top and opened it to cars. Now it’s a picturesque viewpoint from which to watch the sunset and a silhouette that makes for great photos.

Like at the KOA, we never left Bahia Honda while we were there, except to run the trail and to kayak the bay. Steve did some good fishing under the bridge pylons. If we can get reservations here again, we’ll jump on them!

We headed back towards Key West after this incredible stay and will report on that time in the next post. Spoiler alert: it includes appearances from our friends Tom and Nancy and a few more spectacular sunsets.

Just a Start in the Florida Keys

When we say we are in “the Keys” most people assume we are partying in Key West. In fact, we are over 100 miles away from the party town and have spent a busy two weeks exploring the “upper keys.” The Florida Keys are made up of 1,700 little islands beginning about 15 miles south of Miami and extending westward beyond Key West. The word “key” is derived from the Spanish “cayo.” With so many little islands, we have a lot of territory to explore! We started with Key Largo.

Luckily, we snagged a two-week reservation at the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park campground, which made this a more affordable stay than other options in the Keys. Our next-door neighbors in the campground, Dave and Cinda, were from Arizona, and we had a lot in common. The four of us enjoyed excursions, happy hours, and dinners together, which really made our stay here even more special. 

The park itself is mostly underwater. We took the snorkeling excursion to the reef twice and were amazed with the clarity of the water and the health of the reef. The water temperature is about 76 degrees, so it’s possible to swim and snorkel with just a swimsuit. We have our wetsuits with us, so we used those just for a little extra comfort. Lots of colorful fish, calm blue waters, and plenty of sunshine made for two perfect afternoons, one of which we shared with Dave and Cinda.

The park is also known for its kayaking trails through the mangroves. We took the Botē kayaks out several times to paddle around and look for cool things in the water.

Steve also set out on a few mornings to fish from the kayak. He caught a tree and a small pinfish, but that was about it. He had better luck fishing from a nearby bridge.

The Wild Bird Sanctuary is a small, local refuge for a variety of birds. We checked it out one afternoon while we were out poking around. There are a number of these little environmentally focused organizations through the Keys and we always try to stop and support these important organizations. 

One day we had the opportunity to travel back to the Miami International Airport to meet up with our dear friend Lucia Idarraga and her nephew Alvaro who were passing through on their way back to Colombia. There weren’t many options for breakfast in the very crowded airport terminal so we set up our own breakfast cafe curbside. It was a beautiful morning and we were thankful to spend some time with our special friends. 

A highlight of every day here in the Keys is sunset. Many of the area bars and restaurants have a sunset celebration so we checked out as many as we could! That means we’ve got A LOT of sunset pictures! We’re only two weeks into our six week Keys tour, so you can expect a few more sunset photos coming your way!

Key Largo has a warm, community feel. Steve got a haircut, I got a pedicure, we went to the library, and even gave blood one day in typical Keys fashion—there were chickens!

We met a number of locals along the way who were happy to recommend sunset watching locations and favorite restaurants. The Holiday Lighted Boat Parade was a fun local event we shared with our friends Dave and Cinda.

We’ve got a lot more Keys to check out. Soon we are heading to the southernmost point in the USA. 

Vicksburg and Natchez

There’s a mystery about this part of our country…the Great River Road, Civil War battlefields, Antebellum mansions. It’s a new world to us but the history of the area dates back to the 1700s and before.

During the Civil War, Vicksburg’s strategic location on the Mississippi River made it critical for both the Union and the Confederacy. After the 47 day siege, the Confederacy surrendered and the defeat marked a major turning point in the war.

The Vicksburg National Military Park covers over 2,500 acres and features over 1300 monuments honoring those who fought. On our first day we drove the Union Avenue portion of the park and explored the Union lines (marked by blue signs) and key strategic positions. On the next day we focused on Confederate Avenue and the highlights of the defense (marked by red signs). The National Parks Service offers an audio guide that narrates details about the battle as you drive through the large expanse. 

In the north portion of the park is the National Cemetery which holds the remains of 17,000 Union soldiers, more than any other national cemetery. 

The U.S.S. Cairo Museum is also on the site and features the recovered ironclad ship that sank in the Yazoo River in 1862. The Cairo (pronounced KAY-row, unlike Cairo in Egypt) was found in 1952 and was salvaged and restored, creating an interesting display. The adjacent museum includes many artifacts that were recovered from the ship, indicating what life was like for the soldiers of the time.

Besides the military park, we checked out historic Vicksburg and soaked in the history. One mandatory stop in Vicksburg is Solly’s Hot Tamales. Tamales in these parts are not like the tamales we are used to in Arizona. These tasty little things are filled with a mix of ground beef and meal and are served in portions of three or six. We easily polished off six plus some fries. This isn’t the kind of meal we eat regularly…but boy was it good!

From Vicksburg we traveled about 70 miles south along the Mississippi River to Natchez. Another city with a deep history, Natchez was mostly spared destruction during the Civil War and has more Antebellum homes, over 300, than any other city in the south. We enjoyed our stay at an RV park right along the river, visiting a historic home, and trying out a few of the area’s great restaurants and bars. 

We took a tour of the historic Longwood Mansion, which was built in 1860. The construction of the eight-sided mansion was interrupted by the Civil War and the structure was never completed, yet generations of the Nutt family lived in the first floor until the 1960s. From the unfinished second floor you can see up six levels to the unfinished cupola. 

Natchez is a pretty city, situated alongside the Mississippi River. We enjoyed strolling around the town, reading interpretive signs about the town’s rich history.

On our way to the Gulf Coast we spent one night at a Harvest Host. This time we stopped in Stringer, Mississippi and A-Stroka-Genus Alpaca Farm. The small family farm has 35 alpacas, one llama, four Great White Pyrenees dogs, 30+ chickens, ducks, guinea hens, and a pair of very loud miniature donkeys.

Mary Ann gave us a tour of the farm and allowed us to feed the animals. She then demonstrated how she spins the alpaca wool into the skeins of yarn she sells in the small, onsite store. Bob got a new alpaca hide toy out of the deal too! As always, Harvest Host delivered a great experience. 

We’re on to the beach next!